The Vignerons De Caractere, a cooperative venture of 80 wine-growing families, had by 2008 achieved the distinction of being the most awarded cooperative in the Rhone Valley: 10 medals, including 6 Gold from the Competition Agricole de Paris :Paris: And being that co-ops as any wine-making operation range from the excellent to the plonkapalooza, such a feat is very impressive. Actually in 1894 the wines from this specific region won a gold medal at the agricultural fair in Paris. But primarily the wines of the Gigondas commune were used as filler wines for the weaker wines of Burgundies until the beginning of World War II. However, as a result of a bitter winter in 1956, which decimated the Olive trees, a more serious production of wine was rejuvenated and by 1971 the appellation left the other Côtes du Rhône-Villages behind, and became a proper appellation in its own right.

The Vignerons De Caractere Cooperative is a two tier winery . Level one: All of the production follows the dictums of sustainable, green farming, and yields are low as the members of the co-op are dedicated to quality, not quantity. However, the grapes of the wine-makers are combined and bottled as a cuvee selection of the co-op. Level Two Singles out many growers with an exceptional terroir to bottle on their own, and Domain De La Maurelle highlights the quality growers on this level.

Their vineyards are situated at a greater height of land, 600 meters. The Dentelles of the Gigondas, named for their jagged and vertical resemblance to teeth were formed by the imperceptibly slow, yet violent collision of two large chunks of the earth's crust. That collision up-ended layers of sand and silt, deposited by ancient rivers, on top of layers of limestone formed from shells and bones of marine life in oceans that have long since disappeared.

This is mineral-laden soil, lacking organic material and therefore infertile; it stresses the vines, limits growth and insures the good minerality of their wines, and cropping:Domaine De La Maurelle limits their yields to 35 hectoliters per hectare.The aromas of the 2007 Gigondas, Grenache Noir, 80% , complemented by Syrah and Mourvèdre evokes youthful fruit dominated by the Marasca (black cherry), black raspberry, shades of mint, undergrowth, and game. But the palate is balanced and structured, and characterized by a silky richness. There is no heaviness, the cedar, dark fruits, and wood-smoke nuances of the forest floor come together held in a buoyant abeyance by the ripe skein of tannins. This is a wine that will open "as spring opens touching skillfully and mysteriously the heart of this flower." But ee cummings aside, there is mystery when you discover that the wine is 15% alc.: The balance is so impeccable that one would not guess the Alc. Proof. And I find the ability to make a balanced and buoyant wine of "Big Alcohol" - deeply mysterious.

And whereas many Chateauneufs trade up on there village name, even though we are talking several villages which are entitled to the famous name, the more economical Domaine De La Maurelle’s Gigondas would easily match or surpass many of there more well-known siblings.

This Gigondas will cellar well for 5 plus years or if decanted bring more immediate pleasure. I’d buy enough to follow the development of this wine for several years.

2007 Domaine De La Maurelle Gigondas $17.59/net

Bob Kaplan, who thinks nothing of spending your money