2016 Chevillon – “Genuinely Exceptional”
Posted on: 05/16/19 2:58 PM
I don’t know what to say about Domaine Robert Chevillon that hasn’t already been said. Simply put, this is one of the finest Domaines in all of Burgundy. Sumptuous, rich and powerful wines that nonetheless deliver the balance, finesse and terroir expression that is the signature of great Burgundy. Allen Meadows’ exuberance sums it up nicely:
“Chevillon rarely misses, indeed I would describe the domaine as one of the most consistent in all of Burgundy. … Thus it won’t surprise readers to see me extol the quality of the domaine’s 2016s are they are genuinely exceptional across the board.”
That latter point is salient. Yes, prices for Chevillon have risen considerably from what they were in 2009, especially for the Les St. Georges, Vaucrains and Cailles. Nonetheless, in the context of great Burgundy, Chevillon remains a value proposition.
There’s not a lot to the Chevillon story, as it is essentially the same narrative as any traditional Burgundian family Domaine: 5 generations of growers; deep roots in a single village; a single dynamic figure who starts pushing the quality envelope and Domaine bottling (the Domaine’s eponymous Robert); old vines, hard work, passion and a sense of pride. All of these things go into Chevillon’s bottlings – from Passetoutgrains to Les St. Georges.
What makes Chevillon even more remarkable is the clutch of vineyards that spans the length of Nuits and includes all 3 of the appellation’s best vineyards – Cailles, Vaucrains and Les St. Georges. As such, Chevillon is one of the very few Domaines that gives a clear look onto the terroir of a single village. Sure, there are many Domaines whose holdings exist in only one village, but few who have as broad a number of holdings or as capable and consistent hand in the cellar.
2016 is a small vintage chez Chevillon and not much wine is available. The good news is that you can’t go wrong. These are wines that will reward patience, as well as deliver pleasure young. The refinement that Bertrand has brought to the wines in recent years is impressive. I cannot recommend them enough. I only wish I had more!
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