Burgundy Doesn’t Have to Be Difficult… Or Expensive!
Posted on: 03/30/22 2:40 PM
My path back to the wines of Lucien Jacob is circuitous. Once a mainstay of the Burgundy program, somehow in the mad rush for Grand Crus and grander Domaines, it seemed to fall off the map for me. Perhaps that is owed to the quirky release and import schedule (2018s are due to arrive soon), but, regardless, the fault is entirely my own.
Then, recently, a client emailed inquiring about a 2010 he recently drank from one of our old offerings. Coincidentally, a friend in the trade also emailed what I thought of the Domaine, as he had recently drank a straggler from his cellar from the same era. Running with the messages the universe was sending me, I quickly had some samples of current inventory at Rosenthal in front of me. And, honestly, I cannot believe we haven’t been offering these yearly.
Supple, silky, medium-bodied, with hints of earth and bright pinot fruit, with very subtle hints toward secondary characteristics – what’s not to like? So many of us spend all our days scaling the sheer cliffs of Burgundy’s most inaccessible mountain peaks, while failing to ever take true delight in the beauty of the valleys below. Sure, anyone can visit these valleys, but I fail to see how this makes them less beautiful or any less delicious.
What makes Burgundy truly unique in the world of wine is its density and compression of flavor that somehow remains delicate and aetherial, balanced and intricate. And while the DRCs and Leroys and Coche-Durys of the world do this better than perhaps anyone, they are hardly the only producers to pull off the effect – rather they work that magic most dramatically.
But drama can be exhausting. Simple elegance, charm and beauty has its place too. Praise god for Domaines like Lucien Jacob and their modest wines. The rest of us thank them.
My Note: The less commonly seen Toussaints is supremely well situated, surrounded on all sides by Greves, Bressandes and Cents Vignes. Just starting to show some very subtle secondary characteristics, there are subtle earth and sous bois characteristics underscoring the bright, but dark red fruits and decidedly pure rose petal character of the nose. On the palate, the wine is supple and charming, with very fine, dissolving tannins and a juicy acidity. The finish is quite long. This is a stunning little bottle for not much money in the context of Burgundy.
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Posted in Burgundy List By Ian Halbert
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