More Chablis: Testut’s Brilliant 2016’s

Posted on: 08/2/18 12:00 PM


Testut is a producer I’ve been heralding for some time. Producing beautifully etched, classic Chablis of great drive and energy, with plenty of the flinty citrus fruit and mineral core that underpins great Chablis.

This pair of 2016s are exceptional: the Montée de Tonnerre is a perfect picture of this remarkable cru, while the Forêts is a must-have wine not only from this Domaine, but the entire region. Let me explain.

While Montée de Tonnerre is the most sought-after of the 1ers crus, with striking power, depth and minerality, the Forêts chez Testut is a tour-de-force. The cru itself is among the finer of the Chablis 1ers, contained as it is in the middle of the long finger of 1er Montmains. But Testut’s bottling has a secret – the vines in this plot are over 90 years old, lending the wine a sense of power, concentration and complexity unusual for the cru.

Sadly, the production here is tiny and only 100 or so cases are produced every year. Together, these make up two very smart buys from this excellent Domaine and I suggest you snap up what you can!

From previous offers: Testut is one of those houses and one I am thankful for. Chablis is awash in mediocrity. Sure Raveneau and Dauvissat scale heights few ever challenge, but after that there is a very big drop off, with too many producers coasting on what is a very successful name in the marketplace. The sad fact is that “Chablis” commands a certain dollar value no matter how poor the wine.

“The style Testut wants is one of purity and transparency and as the descriptions will confirm, I believe that he achieves this.” – Allen “Burghound” Meadows

Testut, though, delivers on the finely etched and minerally powerful wines that the appellation is famous for. The house style emphasizes the freshness and verve that defines the best Chablis, with good concentration to boot. The vines are, by and large, very old; everything in the vineyards is carried out by hand and work in the winery is minimal. You will find a mixture of steel and oak in the winery, though any oak used is only neutral and reserved for the grander wines.

2016 Domaine Testut New Releases

2016 Chablis 1er Montée de Tonnerre

2016 Chablis 1er Forêts

Posted in Burgundy List By Ian Halbert