I’ve written about this Domaine several times now. Historically underperforming, but today underestimated, it is a source for serious value and wines that are not just undervalued, but, frankly, available.
There’s a lot of noise in the Burgundy market, and seriously talented, worth Domaines can fly well beneath the radar. While everyone clamors after Leflaive, and Roulot and Coche and Ente and Ramonet, some of the very best wines go unnoticed. Take Bouzereau-Gruère et Filles. Here’s what I’ve written before:
This is one of the finest sources for “under-the-radar” white Burgundy that I have found in recent years. Historically, a poorly performing also-ran in Meursault, the past 15 years has seen the next generation come to the fore and craft wines that are on par with their very estimable holdings. With a passionate winemaker who cut her teeth alongside Puligny master Louis Carillon, the Domaine is now crafting some of the most thrilling wines in white Burgundy. And no one knows about them.
Domaine Hubert Bouzereau Gruère et Filles, a family-run estate founded in 1970, uniting two long-standing vine-growing families: Hubert Bouzereau (7th generation) comes from Meursault and Marie-France Gruère (4th generation) from Chassagne-Montrachet. The vineyards now cover 11 hectares in 5 of the Côte de Beaune villages (Meursault, Puligny-Montrachet, Saint-Aubin, Santenay and Aloxe-Corton).
Today, the next generation daughters, Marie-Anne and Marie-Laurie, are taking over. Marie-Anne, charged with the winemaking, is more than prepared, having trained for several years with none other than Puligny master Louis Carillon!
In the vineyard, it’s lutte raisonnée. Harvesting is done by hand and followed by a traditional, natural yeast Burgundian vinification. 12-month elevage in 30% new oak with semi-regular batonnage.
In previous campaigns, I stressed that pricing was silly compared to value. With the increases that attended the seriously stressed vintage of 2016, that curve is starting to bend a little further away from us. Nonetheless, the value proposition still remains - there are few 1er Charmes or Genevrières under $100 these days. And none of this supreme quality.
It is an honor to work with this jewel of a Domaine and these very talented young women. I very enthusiastically encourage you to snap up as much as you can - this is a Domaine very much on the rise.
Planted in 1972! This village wine is sourced entirely from the lieu-dit les Houillères, on the border with Chassagne and at the very bottom of the slope. The soils here are humid and sandy. The wine is an excellent example of Puligny in the fuller style, with opulent fruits and an elegant bearing that is the hallmark of Puligny.
2016 Meursault Tillets
2016 Meursault 1er Charmes
2016 Meursault 1er Genevrières
Very old vines here: Tillets planted in 1961, Charmes 1959 and Genevrières 1951! These 3 vineyards underscore the essence of Meursault. Tillets, sits on the hill above the run of 1ers crus in the middle of the vineyard. The high altitude here results in a tensile, long, and intense wine that nonetheless is marked by the oily sapidity of Meursault. For many, this may be, alongside Tessons, as good as Meursault lieux-dits get. As for the 1ers Charmes and Genevrières, both are justly famous. With Perrières, the vineyards comprise a triangle of the finest terroir in the appellation, expressing the essence of Meursault: class, breed and distinction with a core of oily, rich fruit. Charmes is definitely enjoyable young, even now – generous and opulent, it is a hedonist’s wine. Genevrières, on the other hand, is one of white Burgundy’s greatest appellations: these wines can age for decades and their poise, elegance and freshness are hallmarks of this remarkable vineyard.