So, Chablis has had a hard run lately with some rather unfortunate and extreme frost that has seriously limited quantities available, even if the quality has remained exceptionally high. Add to that, that the producers on offer have all become hot commodities in their own right, with the world clamoring for the minuscule production of these highly regarded houses.
Together, this triad of producers represents the new wave in Chablis, where the highly regarded and talented struggle to ever really command any serious money for their wine precisely because of their lack of any serious vineyard land. It’s not that Picq’s 1er Vosgros isn’t distinct or that Thomas Pico’s 1er Beauregard isn’t equally fine, it’s that neither is Les Clos or Les Preuses, or even Montée de Tonnerre. That is, Vosgros and Beauregard do not fall into the category of collectible.
Or, I should say, the obviously collectible.
The fact is that Gilbert Picq, Thomas Pico and the de Moors have been at the vanguard of quality production in the appellation for the last decade or so and have been recognized by many to be among the finest producers in the region. Yes, the collectors whose cellars burst with DRC, Rousseau, Raveneau and Roumier may not have caught on or come calling, but that’s their loss. Not only are these among the finest wines in France, they age spectacularly.
My advice - go long! But keep in mind there’s not a lot of anything here!!!
Summer Chablis Potpourri
Domaine Pattes Loup (Thomas Pico)
2015 Chablis Vent d’Ange (♥ “Outstanding” BH)
2015 Chablis 1er Beauregard (92 ST)
Domaine Gilbert Picq
2016 Chablis 1er Cru Vosgros (90-92 ♥ BH, 91-93 NM)
Domaine Alice et Olivier de Moor
2015 Bourgogne Chitry (92 AG)
2015 Chablis 1er Bel-Air et Clardy (93 AG)
2015 Chablis 1er Coteau Rosette (92 AG)