Jean-Marc Morey sadly hung up the pipette after the 2014 vintage, having completed well over 40 vintages at his humble, but remarkable Domaine. Achingly traditional, his range of Chassagnes could make the hair stand on the back of your neck. Ample, opulent and intense, with energy and minerality girding the whole edifice of these monumental wines.
Funny, you could describe the man the same as his wines. Larger than life, he embodied (literally) the Burgundian spirit: generous, ample and intense. I have many vintages of Jean-Marc’s wines over the years, and been humbled by their honesty, rigor and sheer deliciousness. So, I considered myself very lucky to have scored a parcel of backvintage gems sourced from Domaine itself.
But not just any back vintages. No. It was 2010 and 2008 - two of the absolute finest white Burgundy vintages of the past 30 years.
So, how could I pass up an opportunity to secure his exceptional Chassagne Village at 8 and 10 years of age, drinking in their prime, especially for such short money? The more important question is: how can you?
2008 JM Morey Chassagne-Montrachet Blanc
2010 JM Morey Chassagne-Montrachet Blanc
40+ year old vines. This is the same cuvee that later became “La Bergerie,” though had some other younger plots added to the mix.
2008: “An extremely fresh nose of resin, orchard fruit and a sauvage hint marries into rich, delicious and attractively balanced middle weight flavors that possess good cut and reasonably good but not special complexity.” - Burghound
2010: “Very mild reduction does not materially detract from the pungent nose of rosemary resin, citrus and white orchard fruit aromas that include pear and apple. There is good size, weight and mid-palate concentration to the energetic flavors that also terminate in a clean, dry and linear finish. This moderately austere effort possesses fine quality for its level and is worth considering.” - Burghound ♥