This will be short and sweet. Mathieu Lapierre, following his father Marcel’s footsteps, continues in the tradition of producing perhaps the world’s most chuggable wine. Beloved by generations of wine drinkers, Lapierre’s Morgon has not only inspired a devoted following, but help reinvent and revitalize the entire appellation of Beaujolais.
As such, we rarely have enough to satisfy the justifiably enormous demand. And, yet, somehow, in 2016, we ended up with an extra couple dozen cases. And Magnums too! How in the world is that possible? Regardless, I would not let this opportunity pass by: 2016 is an exceptional year in Beaujolais and this gem is really starting to enter its prime drinking window.
Don’t. Miss. Out.
2016 Lapierre Morgon
“Bright ruby-red. Vibrant red/blue fruit, violet spice aromas, along with hints of musky herbs and smoky minerals. Sappy and incisive on the palate, offering mineral-tinged raspberry and boysenberry flavors and a touch of fine-spice powder. Subtle tannins give shape to the penetrating, gently tannic finish, which lingers with building sweetness and excellent persistence.” 93 pts., Josh Raynolds, Vinous
More about the Wine:
From last summer’s offer: Depth, nuance and purity: these are the inescapable charms of Marcel Lapierre’s renowned Morgon. If there ever was a museum dedicated to wine, or at the very least an exhibition on the pleasures of drinking wine—not studying—or rationalizing— pontificating or romancing—just an examination on the pure gratification of wine staining your tongue and whooshing down your gullet, Lapierre’s Morgon would be the framed centerpiece. I have never met a person who did not adore this wine. And very few, if any, would argue against the idea that it is the most enjoyable cru Beaujolais made today. It is a masterpiece.
The 2016 (an epic year around Europe) arrives with all the bells and whistles that make the vintage so charming. Round, smooth fruit (bright cherry) play out on a refreshingly airy texture with grace and attraction. It’s lighter, smoother and more classical than 2015. It’s the Beaujolais playing to the strengths of why we love Beaujolais: bright mineral tension, perfumed aromatics, with ripe, juicy fruit—unquestionably refreshing and equally unpretentiously delicious.
Yields were down nearly 60% in 2016 in Beaujolais due to heavy frost damage. While this could be thought of as negative, this has led to wonderful concentration boosted more by the impressive concentration brought on by the 60-year-old vines.
Since Marcel’s death in 2010, his children Mathieu and Camille (both millennials) have been in lockstep to preserve their father’s legacy. They insist, just as their father did, on never using synthetic herbicides or pesticides. The grapes are still manually hand harvested at the last possible moment to obtain the ripest fruit — a trademark of the estate style. They rigorously sort to remove all but the healthiest grapes, only using native yeasts, with minimal doses of sulfur dioxide, or none at all, and completely disdain chaptalization.
The result? The 2016 is a beautiful effort, classic in both nuance and detail but also a sheer pleasure to consume.