Dupont-Fahn is an infamous name in Burgundy. Raymond, the current Dupont-Fahn at the helm, inherited a range of well sited and well regarded vineyards in Meursault from his father, Michel. However, one of these vineyards has garnered its fair share of controversy.
Bourgogne Chaumes des Perrières. But this is no ordinary Bourgogne. It’s 40 year old Meursault from 1ers Sous Dos d’Ane and Perrières. In fact, the vines sit just above Coche-Dury’s plot in Perrières. It’s illustrated below on the map.
So why is it humble Bourgogne? Well, Raymond’s grandfather thought that the topsoil was too thin at the top of the vineyard to support healthy vines. So, in 1975, he filled in 20 inches of topsoil from the bottom of the vineyard in Perrières to aid in planting. This is a big no-no, and was a cause celèbre in Burgundy, which growers still talk about today. I’ve had more than grower bring it up and make the “cuckoo” sign next to their temple when describing grand-père Dupont-Fahn’s decision to disturb the soils of the vineyard.
At the time, however, the outrage was strong enough to have the vineyard declassified from 1er to Bourgogne for violating the INAO rules. And it has remained Bourgogne until this day.
What’s that mean for you? Well, this is essentially old vine, 1er cru Meursault for Bourgogne money. Think about that. How much does your average Perrières cost these days? I can’t think of any under $100. This is $29.99.
Yes. You want a case.
2016 Dupont-Fahn Bourgogne “Chaumes des Perrières”
Notes: “Located at 50 meters in the Perrieres vineyard, just above Coche-Dury's vineyards. Vines have very deep roots and were planted in 1975. 40% new oak, 60% 1-2 year old barrel. Mineral and rich, with great length and an opulence that betrays the humble Bourgogne appellation. This is special stuff.