Dolceacqua doesn’t enjoy much house-hold conversation these days. The tiny, rugged appellation tucked into the hills of western Liguria and seemingly forgotten by time used to have more prestigious vineyards than the Langhe. Now, however, only the deepest Italian wine nerds are savoring this lost bastion of ancient Mediterranean viticulture.
Nerd or not, you should experience Kermit Lynch’s indisputable gem of a winery, Tenuta Anfosso. The “entry” estate Rossesse is a special portrait of this small, mountainous enclave. Think Côte-Rôtie on Mediterranean vacation. Bright, savory with a delicious clean mineral finish, it’s an expression every Italian wine lover will fall in love with.
2016 Tenuta Anfosso Rossese Di Dolceacqua Superiore
Note from Importer Kermit Lynch: “Markedly distinct from the Rosseses crafted by Punta Crena in the coastal Riviera Ligure di Ponente DOC, which are lighter and brighter, Anfosso’s Rosseses, made slightly inland on near-vertical rocky terraces, are darker, more structured, and charming in an altogether different way. The fruit—think cherries and strawberries—is more reserved, with smoke and stones sharing the stage. This wine pairs spectacularly with grilled and braised meats as well as a mushroom-based pasta or pizza.”
More About the Wine
Alessandro Anfosso represents the sixth generation of his family to farm Rossesse in these perilously steep vineyards. For the legion of Kermit Lynch fans reading this, many of you may imagine Mr. Anfosso’s Rossese to be similar to fellow Kermit Lynch producer Punta Crena’s expression. The two, however, are markedly different. While we adore Punta Crena’s bright whimsy, Mr. Anfosso’s expression carries a distinctly more serious tone and gravity. Part of this comes from the winemaking but much of it comes from the singular near-vertical terroir of Dolceacqua. Still light on its feet, these wines are deeper, finer, and more age-worthy than other Rossesse expression we’ve ever come across. This is quite clearly very special terroir being shepherded by an immensely gifted winemaker. Don’t miss it!