Domaine Larue is an unassuming Domaine with little light shining in on it. Located in the hamlet of Gamay, it is not unsurprising that the majority of the wines here are from St. Aubin. However, the Domaine has several rather large holdings in Puligny as well, where the same deft touch produces wines of minerality, purity and length. Plus, they’re very short money for what Burgundy sells for these days.
We all know Kermit has a knack for white Burgundy - after all, Roulot, Raveneau, A. Ente and Coche-Dury are pretty compelling arguments! But his “big names” are not where it stops. Antoine Jobard has taken his father’s work and put the Domaine on a new level, approaching the work of the titans. For years, Kermit worked with “under-the-radar” maestro Colin-Deleger, until he retired. Now he brings in the exceptional wines of Bruno Colin.
Both of these, though, are examples of other excellent, well-known Burgundy producers who collectors and Burgundy lovers have no problem seeking out. However, Kermit also has a knack for scaring up exceptional producers who have little hype or remain unknown to many. Bernard Martelet of Domaine Chérisey comes to mind, as does Domaine Larue.
The Domaines share some stylistic elements, as purity, length, focus and minderality are at the core of their signatures. Moreover, both Domaines exploit traditionally overlooked terroirs - Cherisey in Blagny and Larue in St. Aubin. Lastly - and this is really important - both producers represent incredible value, as such.
Think about it. When was the last time you were buying 1er Puligny-Montrachet for under $75? Most Village wines cost that today. Moreover, if you were buying Puligny 1ers at those prices, I can guarantee the wines did not have the pedigree of the Larue 1er Sous le Puits, and was likely not brought in by Kermit Lynch.
Values like this in Burgundy are, sadly, becoming a thing of the past. Load up today. Who knows when Larue - or Kermit for that matter - adjusts his tariff!
2016 Domaine Larue Puligny-Montrachet 1er Sous le Puits
Planted in 1951 and 1982. 25% new oak, aged on the lees for 10-12 months, with minimal lees stirring and one racking.
Sous le Puits lies at the top of the appellation on the border with Blagny. There is more clay here than downslope, and, as such, there is a generosity that counteracts the high altitude. Still, piercing minerality and great length underpin a sumptuousness of butter and spices. This is an exceptional wine and a stunning value.