Louis Boillot is one of those Burgundy producers who seems to flirt with greatness every vintage and, yet, does not garner the attention or demand he should. He belongs squarely to the whisper campaign style of Burgundy producers who trade among aficionados in the know. Simply put, Louis - alongside and maybe even surpassing his brother Lucien - is producing some of the most satisfying, achingly pure and compelling wines in all of Burgundy.
Of course, with no Grand Cru to his name and no real foothold in any particular village, but rather with holdings spread across both the Côtes - de Beaune and Nuits -, often in overlooked and little known plots, Louis can be easy to overlook. But the overwhelming quality of the wines produced here demand that you not pass them by.
From previous offers: Another day, another offer of fantastic wines from a tiny Domaine, the quantities of which we get in depressingly small numbers. Louis Boillot is renowned in Burgundy circles for several reasons: 1. He’s a member of one Burgundy’s most ubiquitous and noble lines of growers, namely the Boillots; 2. He has a broad range of holdings from stretching from Beaune, Volnay, Pommard, all the way north to Chambolle and Gevrey; 3. He’s Ghislaine Barthod’s husband.
That third point is particularly salient. Not only is Louis Ghislaine’s husband, he’s also her vineyard manager. Moreover, the two share a cellar in Chambolle, and employ virtually identical practices. Yes, you read that right: Louis Boillot not only looks after Ghislaine Barthod’s vines, but he also employs the same vinicultural techniques.
“… since 2005 Boillot has been no less consistent than his wife [Ghislaine Barthod], which is a high, high compliment in my book.” – Allen Meadows on Louis Boillot
The upshot? Louis Boillot produces wines of supreme balance, elegance and fleshy fruit that is also beguilingly transparent. This is Pinot Noir from a master craftsman … and has been for generations.
Louis split his father’s Domaine with his brother Lucien, upon his father’s retirement, and what he inherited were impeccably maintained plots of very old vines, often 50 years and older, stretching from Beaune to Gevrey. Here is where point 2 above comes in: there are no truly noble terroirs here – no Grands Crus or 1ers Crus such as Amoureuses or Les St. Georges, and this fact keeps his wines ever so slightly under the radar. But as I say … slightly.
“… it is high time that Burgundy lovers started to take more notice of just how outstanding the Boillot wines are these days. To give some idea of just how high I hold the Boillot wines … I would have to say that after Domaine Lafarge, these are the best Volnays to be found …. And the great Volnays here are not the only source of fireworks! Monsieur Boillot is clearly at the top of his game at the present time …” – John Gilman, View from the Cellar
2015 is indeed an epic vintage in Burgundy and while some naysayers have invoked ripeness - in a negative sense - the 2015s, while ripe, are nonetheless structured and built to age. These are not mere fruit bombs and terroir sings. Louis Boillot represents the best of what was possible in 2015. I highly recommend securing what you can. It is amazing that these are still available as it is.