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Rarely Seen Prestige Cuvees in a Remarkable Vintage

Posted on: 03/9/21 8:32 AM

Chateau Thivin produces some of the profound examples of Cru Beaujolais, in a decidedly old style, with what seems almost begrudging elegance and conviction. Intense, dense and powerful – the hallmarks of Cote de Brouilly, these wines are not the vin de nature quaffers popular in the region. These are wines of materiere – body and power. And no two wines at the estate are as intense and powerful as the rarely seen Zaccharaie and Godefroy.

2019 Ch. Thivin Cote de Brouilly Cuvee Godefroy

2019 Ch. Thivin Cote de Brouilly Cuvee Zaccharie

Godefroy and Zaccharie are the two top cuvees chez Thivin. Godefroy are the oldest vines in the Godefroy vineyard – over 80-100 years old – while the Zaccharie is the estate’s top cuvee, blending their finest parcels in Godefroy and La Chapelle, and then aging in used barrel for 11 months. Both wines are stunners in any vintage that they are made – and especially in a landmark year like 2019.

More About the Wine

From previous offers: There is a timeless quality to the wines of Thivin, inside they carry a material that feels very anti- “now”, they are the quintessence of a bygone era long past, they are as old school as it can get—they don’t even use pesticides— it makes complete sense that the story begins on a geological timeless jewel, 30 miles North of Lyon …

An ancient volcano struts out in the middle of what looks to be hobbit country. From a distance this small mountain, what locals call Côte de Brouilly, is a curious bump in the middle of flat country. On top of the forested hump lies the small chapel of St. Lager. A geologist’s dream come true, the chapel is completely constructed from tiny mottled blue stones, something scientists would tell you is Diorite, an immensely hard plutonic volcanic rock from the Palaeozoic era. It’s these ancient rocks that provides wines born here its distinctive mineral undercurrent.

The Côte de Brouilly is small, only 1.3 square miles in size, but the hill accommodates nearly fifty growers. Only one, though, has been there the longest, and, without question, the most prestigious: Château Thivin. With a history dating back to the fourteenth century, the entire history of the region has passed through this house. In 1877, the current owners, the Geoffrey family, took residence. It was this family who argued that Côte de Brouilly terroir is singular and unique and was pivotal influence when it was recognized as an appellation in 1953.

Today Claude-Edward Geoffrey continues the long established practices set long ago. Traditional farming, whole cluster fermentation and each vintage spends a few months in large oak foudres before bottling. The resulting wines pull off the impossible trick of being at once of the earth and yet decidedly aristocratic.

There’s a reason you will find Thivin on nearly every great wine list in France.

Posted in Daily Flash By Tim Sellon