Resistance is Futile: 2017 Boulay Allocation

Posted on: 11/1/18 12:00 PM

Boulayhasn’t been a secret in the wine world for decades and yet one of the appellations greatest gems–Gerard Boulay­–is not only still attainable, but is ­still wildly underpriced. Clos de Beaujeu, a vineyard that has been praised and sought after since the 14th century for … $42? Old vine vineyards, handmade by one of France’s greatest growers with a winemaking history dating back to 1380? I don’t know how to explain it, except that the wine world rarely makes sense. But hey, we’ll take it. For all of us in the know, let’s enjoy this while it lasts. One of France’s greatest producers, from one of the country’s most cherished and celebrated appellations…don’t resist this, resistance is futile. Density, terrific mineral power, opulent fruit, Mr. Boulay is the unquestioned master of Chavignol, and his wines immerse us in crystal clear impressions few others can match.

Should you buy into the 2017’s? Yes. Absolutely. Not just because every vintage is a must buy for someone like Boulay, but also because we’ve been particularly charmed by 2017’s rich structure, keen acidity and sublime aromatics. Again, for these prices this is downright silly to pass up. Don’t be foolish here. Experience one of the best while you still can.

2017 Boulay Sancerre Clos de Beaujeu

45+ year old vines. Beaujeu is a renowned site, with a legacy stretching back to the 14th century, when the reds from this vineyard provided the Cathedral of Bourges with red wines. With a bit more clay, here we get fleshy, suave Sauvignon fruit, buttressed with the sweet herbs that the wines here are famous for. This absolutely gulpable and one to enjoy while young, though it has the bones to age also.

2017 Boulay Sancerre Mont Damnés

45+ year old vines. Perhaps the most iconic of the Chavignol crus. Boulay began farming the steeply sloped Mont Damnés vineyard in 1982. His plot has an average vine age of 45 years. Mont Damnés’ reflective soils and south-facing exposition make it one of Chavi­gnol’s warmest sites. Crushed stone, lemon pith, salt, wet stone and a subtle note of sweet herbs, this is textbook Sancerre.

2017 Boulay Sancerre La Cote

50+ year old vines. La Côte is a parcel within the larger vineyard known better as La Grande Côte, notably produced by the Cotats. With incredible precision and minerality, this is the most steely of the range, though not without the necessary flesh to make this among the most compelling wines of the appellation.

2017 Boulay Sancerre Comtesse

50+ year old vines. Comtesse is sourced from a perfectly placed parcel in the heart of Monts Damnés and is perhaps the most profound example of this iconic vineyard. Intense, layered, with great concentration and power, this is built to last for decades.


Posted in Daily Flash By Tim Sellon