Stock Up! Gordon’s 2018 Terry Theise Champagne Pre-arrival
Posted on: 08/29/18 6:28 PM
We are happy to announce that our 2018 Terry Theise Champagne offer is in full swing. This pre-arrival has enjoyed a particular high amount of anticipation due to two storylines. First is the release of the 2012’s – an exceptional vintage in champagne. Despite what vignerons at the time called one of the worst growing seasons in decades (frost, hail and a very wet spring) the vintage produced an outstanding balance of intensity, concentration and terrific acidity–no doubt the crucial makings for long lived champagnes. What is even more unique is that all three varietals produced excellent healthy grapes, something that is extraordinarily rare. Stock up.
The second story line is the ascendance of Marc Hébrart and Chartogne Taillet, both of whom have skyrocketed to become elite blue chips in a portfolio already rife with them. Hébrart has been a long time coming – his wines are full of pleasure while still being stuffed with euphoric detail and class. “The man has reached that odd silent place where every note you play is true (even the ones you didn’t think you could grab) and every swing you take hits the ball square,” profuses Terry Theise. We agree. Hébrart’s wines are sensational and terrific values to boot. 35 year old Alexandre Chartogne is another to grab. Easily one of the most talked about producers in Champagne, Alexandre’s wines are superb. “I believe that Alexandre Chartogne is the most exciting young producer in Champagne,” writes Terry. “He is the most passionately curious vigneron I know, not only in Champagne, but just maybe anywhere.”
Also, just for fun, there is a smattering of sensational 2008’s on offer as well. All in all, if you enjoy Champagne there is plenty to love here.
Please note: Pre-arrival ends on Friday, August 31st at Noon. There is a 3 bottle minimum for each wine, except large formats.
Côte de Blancs Producers
Pierre Gimonnet & Fils (Cuis)
2012 Pierre Gimonnet & Fils “Cuvée Gastronome” Brut
2012 Pierre Gimonnet & Fils “Spécial Club” Brut
2012 Pierre Gimonnet & Fils “Spécial Club Chouilly Grand Cru” Brut
2012 Pierre Gimonnet & Fils “Spécial Club Cramant Grand Cru” Brut
2009 Pierre Gimonnet & Fils “Cuvée Fleuron” Brut
2006 Pierre Gimonnet & Fils “Millésime de Collection” Brut
Pierre Péters (Le-Mesnil-sur-Oger)
NV Pierre Péters “Cuvée de Réserve” Brut
Vallée de la Marne Producers
Marc Hébrart (Maureil-sur-Aÿ)
NV Marc Hébrart Blanc de Blancs Brut
NV Marc Hébrart “Sélection” Brut
NV Marc Hébrart Rosé Brut
2013 Marc Hébrart “Spécial Club” Brut
2012 Marc Hébrart “Rive Gauche-Rive Droite” Grand Cru Brut
Gaston Chiquet (Dizy)
NV Gaston Chiquet Blanc de Blancs d’ Aÿ Brut
2008 Gaston Chiquet “Millesime Carte d’Or” Brut
2009 Gaston Chiquet “Spécial Club” Brut
Montagne de Reims
Chartogne-Taillet (Merfy)
NV Chartogne-Taillet Rosé Brut
NV Chartogne-Taillet Cuvée Chemin de Reims Extra Brut
NV Chartogne-Taillet Cuvée Orizeaux Extra Brut
NV Chartogne-Taillet Cuvée Les Barres Extra Brut
NV Chartogne-Taillet Cuvée Beaux Sens Extra Brut
NV Chartogne-Taillet Cuvée Les Alliées Extra Brut
Vilmart & Cie (Rilly-la-Montagne)
NV Vilmart & Cie “Grand Cellier” Brut
2013 Vilmart & Cie “Grand Cellier d’ Or” Brut
2010 Vilmart & Cie “Coeur de Cuvée” Brut
Below, you will find my favorite picks accompanied by Terry’s notes.
2012 Pierre Gimonnet & Fils “Spécial Club” Brut
“Deg 10/23/17, a blend of many parcels, four in Buissons, (32%), one in Bauves (22%), one in Champ de Prévot (14%) and two in Fond du Bateau (16%), not chaptalized and “very healthy” grapes. This has developed wonderfully and shows the basic nobility of the commune, the lime, chalk, green tea, balsam and sorrel. It’s a wine to love, to study, and to wonder over.”
NV Marc Hébrart Blanc de Blancs Brut
“The very best “NV” Blanc de Blancs in this portfolio, only challenged by the best editions of Péters. It’s 70% 2014, 20% 2013 and 10% 2012, deg 6/2017, and 85% Mareuil with the balance a blend of Oiry and Chouilly. It’s a rather more adamant iteration of this, though as deft and complex as always, all culminating with finish that absolutely defines Champagne.”
NV Marc Hébrart “Sélection” Vieilles Vignes Brut
“The vines range from 40 to 55. Very often this Champagne is something of a guilty secret, because it’s a ludicrous VALUE and if everyone knew about it you’d be dissuaded from trading up to Club. Maybe. I don’t really see this as a “superior NV Brut” so much as the entrée into the Têtes-de-Cuvées, analogous to Vilmart’s Grand Cellier. Why buy this, though, when the NV is so good? First, it is two years older. The vines are older. There’s more Chardonnay in it. It’s all Mareuil, so mono-communal, more terroiré. The aromas are also white; white flowers, white tea, chalk, jasmine rice, lemon blossom, and the wine is creamier, more rapturous and euphoric. Many growers’ top wines don’t come near to this. Pleasure-for-Dollar, this is as good as it gets. And this year it flirts with sublimity.”
2013 Marc Hébrart Spécial Club Brut
“There have been great ones over the years—2002, 2008, 2012—but none as otherworldly as this, the most exquisite young Champagne I have ever tasted. Deg. 8/29/17, it is quite different from the ’12, but just as sublime. 2012 croons, and this one whispers. ’12 leaps like a gazelle; ’13 flaps its gossamer white wings. ’12 is clearly and tangibly great; ’13 is ethereally and hauntingly great. ’13 is a little like 2008, but with less prominent acidity; still, it’s in the family of high cirrus-y skies with mares’ tails and ice-rainbows. I wish I had four plusses to give it. Each pure beautiful element of Champagne is carefully arranged to be examined and identified, until they all melt together into Pleiades of nuance and structure. It’s an ivory-pale bride, shining with bliss and love, even through her gauzy veil. This weightless masterpiece is 30% PN from Mareuil (Faubourg d’Enfer, Croix Blanche, Pruche and Côtes), 25% Aÿ (Cheuzelles, Pierre Robert, and Le Léon) 35% CH old-vines Mareuil (Beauregard, Ramonette and Buisson Saint Loup) and 10% CH Oiry and Chouilly (Justice and Montaigu). It is also a Coeur de Cuvée.”
2008 Gaston Chiquet Millésime Brut
“60-40 PN/CH, deg 7/2017, and what a Pinot fragrance! (And what a blessing to have 2008 available when it’s long since gone at so many other growers.) It’s like a whole basket of fresh-gathered wild Maine blueberries; silky texture, dried herbs and fruits and salt; white flowers, powdered ginger; endlessly cool yet entirely forthcoming. ABSURD VALUE! Somehow this is both classic and yet irreducibly a grower’s wine.”
NV Chartogne-Taillet Rosé Brut
“Deg 1/2018, this wine is sensational, the most improved wine in the stable, taking its place among the most serious and expressive rosés I offer—or anyone offers. Marvelous richness of fruit and earthiness. More robust than ’13 but less muscular than ’12. I liked it so much I forgot to record the data.”
2008 Vilmart & Cie “Coeur de Cuvée” Brut
“Deg 11/2016. Clearly this will be great—will, because as is often the case with Mags it knits slowly and cerebrally but with a skein of a thousand colors—and it takes its sweet time. Already stunning, it will rend your soul into beautiful shreds in mid-tolate 2019.”
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