“The Ambassador in Many Ways for Zen-like Chablis”
Posted on: 08/29/19 2:25 PM
Gilbert Picq is a house favorite. So treasured are the Domaine’s wines that I have a standing order to be alerted whenever the next round is available and want whatever comes to the state – even if it’s 100 cases – delivered directly to the store. As there was a changing of the guard at the distributor in regards to who the portfolio manager was, that is exactly what happened, without any advanced notice at all!
Nonetheless, I was very happy to see several huge piles of Picq Chablis in our cellar! You will be happy too to have them in yours!
Sure, the gold standard for Chablis is Raveneau and Dauvissat, masters of the Chablis-in-cask style, with richness and power married to steely minerality. But there’s another style in Chablis that is more common, but rarely well done, or at least not with the same style, grace and elegance of that of Domaine G. Picq. That style is the rapier-like mineral mode, all freshness, tension and length.
Few can pull this off as well as Picq. And Neal Martin nails it on the head with his précis on the 2017s:
“I have been visiting this domaine for several years now, the ambassador in many ways for Zen-like Chablis. Vines, fruit, stainless steel, no wood contact, into bottle. That’s the simplicity of Picq. Their razor-sharp, saline Chablis can be thrilling.” – Neal Martin on the Picq 2017s
William Kelley of the Wine Advocate is also enthusiastic, gushing of the Dessus la Carrière that “it’s a Chablis AOC that would embarrass many premiers crus” and of the Domaine generally that “the quality of his wines … number among the region’s best in their alliance of depth and detail, power and purity. This is an address that comes warmly recommended.”
It’s an honor to sell these wines every year. 2017 is a special treat, as it is a splendid vintage in Chablis. Miss these at your peril.
2017 G. Picq Chablis Dessus la Carrière
90-92+ pts.: “The 2017 Chablis Dessus la Carrière displays a lovely alliance of ripeness and tension, bursting with aromas of crisp peach, green apple and Meyer lemon. On the palate, it’s medium to full-bodied, glossy and textural, but its lavish attack soon segues into a tense, chalky, stony mid-palate and finish that’s tongue-tinglingly vibrant. It’s a Chablis AOC that would embarrass many premiers crus.” William Kelley, Wine Advocate
91-93 pts.: “The 2017 Chablis Dessus la Carrière, which comes from two parcels and was not produced in 2016 due to frost, offers beeswax and slightly resinous aromas on the nose that unfurl nicely in the glass. The palate is quite effervescent on the entry with orange rind and mandarin complementing the mineral notes, the second half linear and poised with a dab of spice right on the finish. I like the “flow” of this Chablis and the build in the mouth. Excellent.” Neal Martin
2017 G. Picq Chablis 1er Vogros
92-94 pts.: “Picq’s most serious premier cru, the superb 2017 Chablis 1er Cru Vosgros is located in a cold valley and typically receives six additional months of élevage. Wafting from the glass with aromas of lemon oil, lime zest and salty oystershells, it’s medium to full-bodied, intense and concentrated, built around a vivid line of tangy acidity, with a deep, tight-knit core and a tense, chalky finish. It’s an excellent wine in the making and one that will appeal to purists.” William Kelley, Wine Advocate
92-94 pts.: “The 2017 Chablis Vosgros apparently had a difficult fermentation that was very slow this year and as a consequence it will probably be bottled later, early next year. The bouquet is more muted than the Vaucoupin at the moment partly because of the tardy ferment, so this is difficult to read at the moment. The palate is fresh and vibrant with crisp acidity, very focused and lively, delivering the power and precision towards the grippy finish. It will certainly merit three or four years in bottle, so have a cellar handy.” Neal Martin
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