The New Order in Tuscany: Ultra Pure, Sublime Sangiovese from an Emerging Cult Priestess
Posted on: 07/18/19 6:10 PM
Giovanna Morganti is quickly becoming recognized as one of the best of the new generation of Tuscan winemakers and her 2016 Le Trame Chianti Classico from Podere Le Boncie is fabulous. With her profound respect and understanding of tradition along with the incredible 2016 vintage (beautiful depth, regal bearing and the astonishing freshness) every bottle of Ms. Morganti’s Le Trame is sublime. Make no mistake: this is one of the most impressive 2016 Chianti we’ve tasted to date, and represents a new order in Tuscany.
Be warned: these wines have a strong cult following in the trendier places of New York and the broader wine world. You will unlikely have another opportunity to buy once these sell through.
2016 Podere Le Boncie Le Trame Chianti Classico
Note from Importer Neal Rosenthal: “The beauty of Sangiovese is revealed here in its most pure form, unencumbered by manipulation of the wine during vinification and elevage and without exposure to new oak. The vineyard lies at an altitude of 300-350 meters; the average vine age is 15 years. The essential character of this wine can best be described as “ferociously elegant”. But, what appears to be an oxymoron is, in fact, the reality. There is a gracefulness to this wine, an impeccable balance, that belies the intense concentration reflected in its vigorous, ripe tannins.”
More About the Wine
Podere Le Boncie is in the hamlet of San Felice which itself is located a handful of minutes north of Castelnuovo Berardenga, in the southern tier of the Chianti Classico zone. The small estate is a mere three hectares. Like her father, Ms. Morganti studied oenology and went to work in the 1980s for San Felice wines in Castelnuovo Berardenga, near Siena, on a project to plant around 300 traditional Tuscan grape varietals collected from old vineyards. When Giovanna’s father bestowed her a small farm with olive groves, called Le Boncie, she added a vineyard planted with her favorites from the experimental project – Sangiovese, obviously, but also Ciliegiolo, Colorino, Foglia tonda Mammolo and Prugnolo.
Ms. Morganti is a firm believer in tradition – harvesting is by hand, fermentation occurs in traditional open topped wooden tanks and elevage is long with an occasional racking implemented to aerate the wine. In regards to her farming, Giovanna follows some of the strictest principles for organic viticulture (Biodynamic). For anyone who enjoys Tuscan wine, this beautiful 2016 expression one not to miss.
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