The Right Stuff: Super Limited Cult Loire Guiberteau!
Posted on: 08/23/18 12:01 PM
Clos Rougeard is dead.
The super-cult Loire estate responsible for producing some of the most sought after and rare wines in the world has been sold to French billionaire brothers Martin and Olivier Bouygues, owners of Château Montrose. The original owners, the Foucault family, have now completely detached themselves from the domain their family established in 1664.
With the fall of Rougeard, estates like Domaine du Collier and Guiberteau (who trained under the Foucaults) take on a whole new level of importance – and rarity. Under normal circumstances you can’t miss these wines. But with Rougeard’s announcement, you simply must buy every bottle you can afford.
Already difficult to find, these wines are going become even more impossible to source. Today we are offering the stunning new 2017/2016 collection from Guiberteau and you cannot miss them. Be it the Chenin Blanc or the Cabernet Franc, in the hands of Romain Guiberteau special things happen. Old vines (80+), exceptional vineyards (some of the best in the Loire) and an ambitious and immensely talented young winemaker has made this estate the new top dog. From reports that we have read, 2017 in the Loire offer brighter, fresher, more aromatic wines when compared to 2016. If you love more classical expressions of Chenin (think 2014) then I would strongly consider buying up the 2017’s. The 2016’s, meanwhile, are still absolute charmers with the intoxicating concentration and verve.
More about the Wine
Guiberteau’s Chenin have a concentration and density that recall the sex appeal of a Puligny, but also the mineral precision and pristine ethereal acidity of the Mosel. It’s an unbelievable feat. His “entry” level Saumur is a steal, but the single vineyard for under $55 are outright crimes. The value is unreal and will make any Burgundy collector blush with envy. Beautifully mineral and seductively suave, his Cabernet Franc is often compared to Burgundy and for good reason. Violets, lavender, herbs, blackcurrant all seamlessly held by fine tannin and crushed mineral.
For further notes, we have included some details about the vineyards below:
2017 Saumur Blanc
An outrageous value, our favorite “intro” Chenin blanc from the Loire. Period. The grapes come from younger vines in Clos des Carmes and Clos de Guichaux, and older vines on the bottom of the hill of Brézé. Pressing of whole clusters, indigenous yeast fermentation in tank. Aging on fine lees in tank, light filtration.
2017 Saumur Rouge
Three parcels planted planted from 1955 to 1957 lying on silt and sand top soils covering soft limestone on Brézé. The maximum yield is 40-50 hl per hectare. 100% de-stemming, maceration in concrete tanks for 10-60 days. Natural yeast fermentation and aging in tank for 6 months.
2017 Saumur Blanc Les Moulins
This wine is from Montreuil-Bellay, Brézé and Bizay. Vineyards are planted at a density of 5,500 vines per hectare. The maximum yield is 45 hl per hectare. 600 cases produced.
2016 Guiberteau Saumur Blanc Clos de Guichaux
This vineyard, a monopole of the domaine, is planted with a density of 5,500 vines per hectare and the maximum yield is 45 hl per hectare. The average production for this cuvée is 500 cases.
2016 Guiberteau Saumur Rouge les Motelles
The vineyard is located in Montreuil-Bellay with vines planted from 1955. 100% de-stemmed, from 10 days to 4 weeks of maceration, indigenous yeast fermentation in concrete tank. 12 months aging in oak barrel (2-3 years old), unfiltered. Only 275 cases produced.
2015 Guiberteau Saumur Rouge les Arboises
Hill of Brézé, south-facing, sand and silt top soils over limestone with vines planted in 1957. 100% de-stemmed, 10 days to 4 weeks maceration in concrete tanks. Natural yeast alcoholic fermentation. 18 months aging in oak barrels (80% new, 20% 1 year old), unfiltered. Less than 60 cases produced a year.
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