“Your New Favorite Domaine”: 2016 Gems from Under-the-Radar

Posted on: 07/18/19 5:47 PM

Domaine Coquard Fleurot Loison has been hiding in plain sight for years. Situated in the heart of Flagey-Echezeaux, this historic house has breathtaking holdings, which, for years, ended up in the bottles of the négociants rather than under the Domaine’s own label. That all began to change with the ascendance of Claire Fleurot and winemaker Thomas Calladot.

Today, everything is bottled at the Domaine, rather than sold off. Moreover, the wines are stupendous. Pure, fleshy, elegant and avoiding the worst mistakes of overeager winemaking – there is no overextraction or intrusive new oak. Neal Martin had to avoid tripping over his tongue as he praised the wines:

Coquard Loison Fleurot is your new favorite domaine. … It was the “surprise package” of over 100 visits tasting 2016s. It was the visit that sent tingles down my spine. It was the visit where I had to maintain my Lady Gaga-approved poker face in order to disguise the thrill. Stylistically, I was thinking of Mugneret-Gibourg or his nearby neighbor Emmanuel Rouget, wines brimming full of crystalline red fruit and tension with satin textures and spine-tingling tension.

It’s not often you read about a Burgundy grower emerging on the scene and immediately being compared to Emmanuel Rouget or Mugneret-Gibourg. Moreover, this must be the first time in decades that a new grower of such enthusiasm from the press also has holdings in 6 Grands Crus: Echezeaux, Grands Echezeaux, Clos Vougeot, Charmes-Chambertin, Clos de la Roche and Clos St. Denis!!!

Where the hell have YOU been hiding?!?!?

It turns out that Thomas is the best friend of one of Burgundy’s most celebrated wine makers, Sebastian Cathiard, whose practices and philosophies Thomas shares. As with Sebastian, Thomas & Claire’s vineyards are famous for being among the finest in Burgundy as the result of the hard work invested in them. The elegant suavity of both houses is obvious.

I’ve been trying the wines for a few vintages now and have finally secured a very small parcel, but one I would like to think of as an introductory offering. I encourage you to snap these up. This Domaine is headed for higher prices and impossible-to-acquire status. Run, don’t walk.

2016 Coquard Loison Fleurot

2016 Bourgogne Rouge

2016 Vosne-Romanee
2016 Grands Echezeaux

96-98 pts.: “There is just a single barrel of the 2016 Grands Echézeaux Grand Cru that is 100% whole bunch fruit this year. That stem addition does define the aromatics at the moment—although there is sufficient fruit to absorb that—very well defined and focused. The palate has palpable energy on the entry, a killer line of acidity, precise and unashamedly classic in style. It builds with confidence in the mouth, and there is a fantastic orange sorbet/blood orange note right on the finish that leaves the senses reeling with freshness and energy. Wow. A wine has arrived…”

Posted in Burgundy List By Ian Halbert