The Little Donkey That Could
Crafted from the virtually unheard-of Susumaniello grape, grown on just 125 acres in all of Italy, this wine is a genuine treasure of Puglia, offering an extraordinary expression of a variety that has not yet begun to get the recognition it deserves.
Masseria Li Veli, a beautifully restored 19th-century estate on the sun-soaked Salento Peninsula, has become a beacon of quality for southern Italy. Their Askos project is devoted to preserving native grapes, and their Susumaniello is the standout: a full-bodied, velvety red bursting with ripe blackberry, plum, and spicy licorice notes, wrapped in the herbal warmth of southern Italy’s limestone-rich soils.
This ancient varietal—whose name charmingly means “little donkey,” likely for its once-heavy yields—was nearly forgotten until a handful of visionary producers recognized its potential. Today, it remains one of Italy’s rarest grapes, cultivated on just 125 acres across the entire country. Masseria Li Veli has become the champion of Susumaniello, and their Askos line, named after an ancient Greek wine vessel, is dedicated to preserving such native varietals.
The estate itself is steeped in history. Masseria Li Veli stands on the site of a former 16th-century masseria, a fortified farmhouse once part of a noble landholding system called a latifundo. Rebuilt in 1895 by economist and reformer Antonio de Viti de Marco as a model wine cellar, the estate was revived again in 1999 by the Falvo family—veterans of Tuscany’s Avignonesi winery—who sought to transform it into a benchmark for high-quality winemaking in Puglia.
Today, Li Veli produces wines from traditional bush-trained vines on limestone-rich soils, using sustainable farming methods and meticulous winemaking overseen by acclaimed consultant Roberto Cotarella. Their Susumaniello vineyard, located in the commune of Cellino San Marco, sits just 70 meters above sea level and benefits from a mix of clay and limestone—ideal for producing structured yet elegant wines.
It’s an extraordinary wine, not just for its uniqueness, but for the incredible value it delivers. For under $20, the Askos Susumaniello gives you structure, complexity, and authenticity—qualities often reserved for wines at twice the price. It’s also incredibly versatile at the tabl–this New England spring is still throwing some 40 degree nights at us so put on a pot roast and open a bottle to warm up.
Edward Deitch
There's a good deal of complexity in this wine from the relatively obscure Susumaniello grape. Aged in French oak barrels, it offers brambly dark berry and garrigue herb aromas. On the palate, the fruit is accented by hints of semi-sweet chocolate, espresso, and cinnamon. The vines grow in clay, sand, calcareous soils and the wine has a textured minerality.
