Jorge Ordóñez Strikes Again
Albariño is beloved for its freshness and charm, but in the right hands it can deliver something far more profound. The 2023 Bodegas La Caña Navia is a rare, old-vine expression from Rías Baixas that transforms this coastal classic into a wine of depth, precision, and true grandeur.
La Caña is the Rías Baixas project of Jorge Ordóñez, whose reputation for uncovering Spain’s finest vineyards and championing old-vine treasures is second to none. With Navia, the focus is on a special parcel of old vines planted on granitic soils, farmed conscientiously and harvested by hand. The wine is then fermented with indigenous yeasts and aged in large, old French oak barrels, giving it remarkable texture and dimension while preserving the saline brightness that defines Albariño.
The 2023 Navia is layered and expressive, opening with aromas of citrus blossom, ripe peach, and crushed seashells. On the palate, it’s both vibrant and weighty: flavors of Meyer lemon, pear, and apricot are lifted by a mouthwatering streak of acidity, while subtle notes of fennel and wet stone linger on the long, mineral finish. It’s Albariño in high definition—structured, age-worthy, and utterly captivating. The palate weight and richness really stuck with me. It’s impressive.
This is not the easygoing Albariño you grab for a picnic—it’s a wine of presence. With only small quantities produced, it’s a bottle to seek out now, before word spreads even further. The 2023 La Caña Navia shows Albariño at its most profound—a rare and brilliant expression of Rías Baixas from one of Spain’s most trusted names
94 Points, James Suckling
A sophisticated albarino that you need to take seriously. There is almost a Burgundian touch to this, with its fine, flinty oak, lemon zest, seashells and berries. Salty and bright, with lots of nerve and texture to the taut, medium- to full-bodied palate. Pretty, long, saline and energetic.
