When Limestone Sings, Burgundy is Near
Founded in 1956 and instrumental in the creation of the Viré-Clessé AOC itself, the Bonhomme family has spent decades proving that this corner of Southern Burgundy can deliver Chardonnay with depth, tension, and age-worthy structure. The 2023 “Cuvée Spéciale” is a perfect reminder of this.
The vintage gave the domaine exactly what they excel with: clean, ripe fruit balanced by the naturally bright acidity that defines limestone-driven Viré-Clessé. In 2023 the grapes reached beautiful maturity without sacrificing acid cut, creating a wine that is at once generous and chiselled. This is an expressive snapshot of old-vine Chardonnay grown on classic clay-limestone soils. Bonhomme works largely organically, with minimal intervention and a steady, traditional hand, which lets the terroir read with clarity in every glass.
The “Cuvée Spéciale” has long been one of the flagship wines of the estate, assembled from their best parcels and raised with patience for extra texture and dimension. The 2023 shows a luminous balance: pear, white peach, and subtle citrus lengthened by mineral detail and a gentle savory echo. There is richness, but never weight; just that poised, Burgundian glide. It’s a wine built to drink beautifully now, but its spine suggests several years of graceful development ahead.
What makes this bottling especially compelling is the relationship between pedigree and value. In an era when white Burgundy continues to edge out of reach, Bonhomme remains one of the last truly classic producers whose wines still sit within the realm of daily luxury. This is honest, skillful, family-made Chardonnay from an historic domaine, crafted with the kind of restraint and precision that made Burgundy famous in the first place. This is the kind of Burgundy that disappears quickly for all the right reasons.
