An Old Favorite, Jean-Marc Burgaud
There are a handful of growers who built the Beaujolais Renaissance, and Jean-Marc Burgaud is one of those. Long before Morgon and Côte du Py became shorthand for serious Gamay, Burgaud was quietly proving that these steep, iron-rich slopes could produce wines of depth. His work helped reshape perceptions of Beaujolais from something simple and fleeting into something worth paying attention to. Today, Morgon stands among the most respected crus, and Burgaud remains one of its most reliable standard bearers.
Burgaud’s holdings on the Côte du Py are exceptional, with parcels situated high on the slope where the vineyard’s famed decomposed schist and volcanic rock are most expressive. This is the heart of the hill—the old, crumbling rock known locally as roche pourrie (“rotten rock”)—a soil that forces the vines to struggle, driving roots deep and yielding fruit of remarkable concentration and mineral intensity. It’s this terroir that gives Burgaud’s Morgon its unmistakable signature of darker fruit and firmer structure that sets it apart from its peers.
Year after year, this is one of the most consistent wines we taste. Vintage variation brings nuance, but the core identity never wavers. The 2024 captures everything we hope for here with black raspberry and cherry fruit, lifted violet aromatics, and that unmistakable mineral backbone. There’s a seriousness to it, but also energy and drinkability, with a freshness that keeps you coming back to the glass.
This is Beaujolais for Burgundy lovers. It has the depth to cellar for a decade, where it will develop the earthy, savory complexity Morgon is famous for, but it’s also incredibly delicious now with a simple decant.
Burgaud helped show the world what Morgon could be. He continues to prove it with every vintage.
92 Points, Vinous
The 2024 Morgon Côte du Py has a vivid, stony bouquet with redcurrant and raspberry fruit unfolding in the glass. The palate is medium-bodied with fine-boned tannins and a touch more sour cherry in the mix, especially on the piquant finish. Again, this is very promising and might become the edgiest of Burgaud's 2024s.(NM)