Cotes du Rhone that drinks like Chateauneuf
To be honest, I don’t normally include Côtes du Rhône at this price point. But this is not a typical Côtes du Rhône.This strikes me very much as a great Chateauneuf du Pape at a fair price point.
The 2023 Gramenon Côtes du Rhône “La Sagesse” is a special, single-vineyard, old-vine, small-production wine from particularly beautiful Grenache vines, and it absolutely earns its place. I’m especially excited to offer this as a KLWM import, a name synonymous with thoughtful selections and benchmark traditional producers.
Tasting this incredibly silky and lithe red from the famed Gramenon family, I couldn’t help but wonder how La Sagesse carries the full flavor, succulence, and savoriness we associate with Grenache on such a graceful and lively frame. Biodynamic farming and 70-year-old vines are no doubt two factors behind the finesse on display, but it also might just come down to the fact that vigneronne Michèle Aubéry-Laurent is one of the genius growers of her generation.
“La Sagesse,” meaning wisdom, comes from old-vine Grenache grown on limestone-rich soils, and you can feel that depth and grounding character from the first sip. This is not a heavy, jammy Rhône — it’s graceful, perfumed, and beautifully balanced.
The nose opens with wild strawberries, crushed raspberries, dried rose petals, and a touch of garrigue in aromas of thyme, lavender, and sun-warmed herbs. On the palate, it’s silky and medium-bodied, with bright red fruit, subtle spice, and a mineral streak that keeps everything fresh and energetic. The tannins are fine and gentle, making it incredibly drinkable now, while still offering enough structure to evolve over the next several years.
What makes “La Sagesse” special is its harmony. Nothing sticks out, nothing feels forced — it’s just effortlessly complete. This is the kind of bottle you open for a casual dinner and then end up talking about all night.
Food-wise, it’s wildly versatile. Think roast chicken with herbs, grilled lamb, ratatouille, mushroom dishes, or even a simple charcuterie spread. It has the freshness to handle lighter fare and the depth to stand up to heartier plates. Again, everything I love about Chateauneuf.
Production is always limited, and wines from Gramenon have a way of finding very loyal followings. If you appreciate Rhône reds that lean toward elegance over power, this is a must-have for the rack.
91 Points, Wine Spectator
“Winery, red currant and pomegranate turn creamy and rich on the broad palate, with graphite-edged tannins bringing firm shape. Complete, showing real depth and beautiful textural purity, with finely polished tannins and violet high tones. A harmonious, complete wine with a touch of campfire smoke. Drink now -2030. 150 cases imported