Vieux Télégraphe quality, Vaucluse Price
Best known as the long-time stewards of Domaine du Vieux Télégraphe in Châteauneuf-du-Pape, the Bruniers have been quietly producing some of the most honest and compelling wines of southern France for generations. Their 2023 Famille Brunier Vaucluse “Le Pigeoulet” is exactly that kind of wine; deeply rooted in tradition, beautifully expressive, and wildly satisfying to drink.
Le Pigeoulet comes from vineyards just outside the Châteauneuf-du-Pape appellation, on the same classic mix of limestone, clay, and galets roulés that make the region famous. It is primarily Grenache, supported by Syrah and Cinsault, farmed with the same meticulous care the family applies to their top estate holdings. The result is a wine that delivers true southern Rhône character without pretense or inflated price.
The 2023 vintage shines here. Warm days and cool evenings produced fruit of exceptional purity. In the glass, Le Pigeoulet opens with aromas of ripe raspberry, strawberry compote, lavender, cracked pepper, and warm Provençal herbs. The palate is supple and generous, with juicy red fruit, hints of garrigue and spice, and a silky texture that makes it dangerously easy to drink. There is freshness underneath it all which is the hallmark of Brunier’s touch that keeps the wine lively, vibrant, and incredibly food-friendly.
One of my favorite importers, Kermit Lynch, has worked with the Brunier family for decades and remains one of the most respected and influential voices in the world of fine wine. When Kermit chooses a producer, it is not because of trend or fashion, but because the wine tells a story of place and people. Le Pigeoulet is exactly the kind of wine he has built his reputation on.
This is the kind of bottle you open on a weeknight and suddenly the meal feels like a small celebration. If you love the southern Rhône like I do, if you appreciate wines that over-deliver, and if you trust the names Brunier and Kermit Lynch this bottle belongs in your cellar and on your table.
