Why the Old Guard Still Matters on Mount Etna
Over the past decade, few wine regions have experienced a rise in popularity quite like Mount Etna. Once considered a niche corner of Sicily, Etna has become one of the world's most sought-after wine destinations, attracting investors, celebrities, and ambitious winemakers eager to stake their claim on the slopes of Europe's largest active volcano.
But as with any rapidly emerging wine region, popularity comes with consequences.
Vineyard land on Etna has nearly doubled in recent years as demand for Etna wines has surged. While this expansion has increased production, much of the newly planted acreage occupies sites that previous generations of growers largely ignored because it is simply less suited to producing great wine. This makes it increasingly important to pay attention to the region's OG producers, the families who were farming Etna long before the international spotlight arrived.
The Murgo family has been cultivating vineyards on Mount Etna since 1860. They didn't have to scramble for vineyard land during the recent boom because they already owned some of the mountain's most desirable sites with ancient vines. Their vineyards were selected and planted when land values reflected agricultural merit rather than market speculation, giving the estate access to prime elevations, ideal exposures, and some of the most proven growing sites on the volcano. While many newer Etna projects are still learning which sites truly excel, Murgo continues to deliver wines that express the mountain's character year after year.
Even with these advantages, farming Etna remains an act of perseverance. The vineyards sit on the slopes of an active volcano that rises over 10,000 feet above sea level. Volcanic soils, dramatic temperature swings, and high elevations create wines of remarkable freshness and complexity, but the mountain's gifts come with real risks. Lava flows have altered the landscape throughout Etna's history, and every grower understands that vineyards cultivated over decades can disappear in a matter of days. It is a constant reminder that farming here is never routine.
The 2025 Murgo Etna Bianco showcases the brilliance of Carricante grown at elevation, offering vibrant citrus, floral aromatics, and the unmistakable mineral energy that defines great Etna whites. The 2022 Murgo Etna Rosso captures the refinement of Nerello Mascalese, combining bright red fruit, savory complexity, and volcanic nuance in a wine that is both approachable and deeply expressive of place.
In a region undergoing rapid change, Murgo remains a reminder that the best vineyards are often the ones that were recognized generations ago.
91 Points, Jeb Dunnuck
"The Murgo Etna Bianco is a bright yellow/straw color and is fresh with savory aromas of saline, white pear, citrus pith, and stony earth. Medium-bodied, it has a chalky texture, with citrus pith and a clean finish. Drink over the coming 6-8 years."
91 Points, Jeb Dunnuck
"Displaying a pale red color, the Murgo Etna Rosso is expressive, floral, and spicy. Cardamom, cranberries, toasted spice, and floral perfume lift from the glass. Elegant and floating on the palate, it has a lean to medium-bodied texture, with fine tannins and a clean stony finish. Savory and inviting, it’s perfect to enjoy now or over the next 4-6 years."