A fresher take on Umbria
Francesco Mariani of Cantina Raina’s philosophy starts in the vineyard with a deep commitment to indigenous varieties, and in this bottling Sangiovese takes the lead role. Rather than chasing ripeness at all costs, Francesco works toward balance and expression with this Rosso della Gobba. Through careful canopy management and farming, he achieves long hang time without excessive sugar accumulation, resulting in naturally lower alcohol levels and beautifully developed flavors.
Even more distinctive is where these vines grow. In a warm region such as Umbria where many producers favor sun-drenched southern exposures, Francesco has deliberately chosen north-east facing slopes. This decision preserves acidity, slows ripening, and gives the wine its freshness, energy, and refined tannic structure which is a rare profile in Umbria, and one that makes this wine immediately appealing. I usually go to Umbria for what I refer to as dirty southern Italian pizza wine, but this shows a good deal more refinement.
In the cellar, the approach is just as thoughtful. Fermentations are hands-off and gentle, allowing the character of Sangiovese and the site to shine without heavy extraction or oak influence. The result is a wine that shows bright red cherry, wild herbs, and floral lift, supported by subtle earth tones and silky, polished tannins. It is refreshing and honest to its roots of Sangiovese. The wine honestly surprised me
Despite the structure and depth that come from long hang time and low yields, this is not a wine that demands years in the cellar. Francesco crafts his wines so they can be enjoyed upon release, offering both complexity and drinkability right now. It’s Umbria with a lighter touch. This is a Rosso more about finesse, less weight, and a freshness that keeps you coming back to the glass.
The 2022 Raina Rosso della Gobba is a standout. It’s a delicious example of how thoughtful farming and restraint in winemaking can transform expectations in a warm-climate region. Again, brought to us by Jace from Vine Farmer, this should be no surprise. These are often the throughlines of his imports-refreshing wines that are part of the new wave of nearly any region that he is bringing to us.
Winemaker notes on Farming:
"The winegrower must aim to maintain over time the richness of the soil from which he draws the fruits of his labour, without exploiting it passively for mere economic reasons, nor progressively impoverishing it with the use of chemicals..."