A Pure Expression of Abruzzo
I wanted to put a truly delicious bottle on your radar, the 2022 Tenuta I Fauri Montepulciano d’Abruzzo “Ottobre Rosso.” Tenuta I Fauri sits in the heart of Chieti, the southernmost province of Abruzzo, where rolling hills descend from the Maiella mountains toward the Adriatic Sea. The vineyards here are rooted in clay soils, which give this wine its signature richness and structure while preserving a vibrancy and freshness.
What I love about this winery is the commitment to purity. I know I say that a lot, but I think it is important to note in a world of increasingly mass-produced, adulterated wine. These wines are never overworked or over-polished; instead, they allow the vineyard and vintage to speak clearly. Although their Montepulciano could fall under the Villamagna DOC, the di Camillo family has chosen not to use the designation, feeling it doesn’t fully communicate the individuality of their terroir. This is a wine that not only overdelivers in quality, but also carries a story worth sharing at the table.
That connection to the place has been tested. In 2023, the Chieti area endured nearly three months of relentless rain, leading to devastating outbreaks of powdery mildew.. While many producers lost up to 70% of their crop, Tenuta I Fauri suffered losses closer to 85%. As Valentina di Camillo described, the rainfall was so intense that even their sandy parcels couldn’t drain, forcing them to concede much of the vintage.
As a result, there will be no 2023 Montepulciano d’Abruzzo or Trebbiano from the estate. There will be only a limited production of Cerasuolo, along with small amounts of Passerina and Pecorino. It’s a stark reminder of how rare and valuable a winemaker of ethos is in a vintage like 2022 truly is. Lesser producers could have used chemicals, or simply bottled flawed wines.
From the first pour, this wine is immediately captivating. The nose is invigorating and complex, with layers of earth and smoke, lifted by a piercing tang of cracked pepper, plum skin, and ripe blackberries. There’s also a warm thread of spice that adds depth and intrigue.
On the palate, “Ottobre Rosso” is generous and textured. A savory interplay of salt and pepper frames the core of tart, dark fruit, keeping everything tightly knit and energetic. The tannins are almost ferocious, creating a toothsome, structured feel that gives the wine real presence. Yet it remains balanced, thanks to fresh acidity and a medium-grained finish that lingers beautifully, with even a subtle echo of Turkish Delight on the close.
With a dearth of 2023s, this is a great opportunity to pick up the 2022 vintage. The wine is really quite lovely, and I will miss it when it is gone until the 2024s come out.
92 Points, Vinous
The 2022 Montepulciano d'Abruzzo Ottobre Rosso opens with a burst of dusty rose, wilted violets and wet stones before settling on lavender-laced blackberries. Silken in feel and with a solid core of ripe red berry fruits, this swirls across the palate easily, guided by juicy acidity. Licorice hints settle in toward the close. The 2022 is dramatically long and staining with a spicy tinge, leaving edgy tannins that frame the experience well without slowing its momentum.