A Taste of Alto Piemonte
The 2022 Noah Coste della Sesia “Dellamesola” is a great representation of Alto Piemonte heritage, crafted from a grape that has its deepest roots right here in the foothills of Monte Rosa. This is a place where Nebbiolo and its local relatives have been cultivated for centuries, long before the more famous Langhe began to dominate the conversation. In the small, fragmented DOCs of Alto Piemonte; Lessona, Bramaterra, Gattinara, and the larger Coste della Sesia; these ancient varieties produce wines of striking finesse and longevity.
The Noah estate has become a quiet star in this revival. Farming is meticulous, production is tiny, and the winemaking is as gentle as it is precise. In “Dellamesola,” you feel that mountain influence immediately: the wine is perfumed, and beautifully detailed, but starts out brooding and dark right out of the bottle, with the kind of purity that only comes from high-elevation vineyards and long, cool growing seasons.
The 2022 vintage captures the essence of Alto Piemonte’s classic style. Aromas of red currant, alpine herbs, rose petal, and graphite rise effortlessly from the glass, the signature of these volcanic and glacial soils. On the palate the wine is taut and elegant, with a tensile quality that feels carved from stone. Like the best wines of the region, “Dellamesola” combines structure with transparency. Tannins that are present but never heavy, acidity that keeps everything lifted, and fruit that slowly gains complexity over time. While it is already wonderfully expressive, this is a bottle that can evolve for a decade or more, gaining the savory depth, dried floral notes, and mineral nuance that define great Alto Piemonte.
I personally love the wines of Alto Piemonte, but often dislike the price point. This is a great introduction to the region at $25 while still offering the ability to lay down a case and taste a bottle every year or so to explore how Nebbiolo from the mountains can age.
93 Points Vinous Media
The 2022 Coste della Sesia Dellamesola is a blend of Nebbiolo, Croatina and Vespolina aged in cask. Brooding in its first impression, the 2022 is pretty bold and punchy. Black cherry, dried herbs, leather, licorice and cloves add to its somber personality. I would give this muscular red at least a year or two in bottle.