A white from Montalcino that only Capanna could make
Few estates in Montalcino are as steeped in tradition as Capanna, and few would dare to reinterpret that tradition so beautifully. Known for crafting some of the region’s most soulful and age-worthy Brunellos, Capanna now turns its mastery of Sangiovese toward an unexpected direction — a pure white wine. This wine has remained a fascination of mine for many years. With a maximum production of around 1000 bottles annually. This was simply created as an experiment when the youngest member of the Cencioni family returned from Enology school as the first University trained wine maker in the family around twenty years ago.
The SangioBi is made entirely from Sangiovese grapes grown in Capanna’s vineyards in Montosoli, long considered one of the greatest terroirs in all of Montalcino. The fruit is gently pressed and fermented without skin contact, revealing a side of Sangiovese most have never seen. The result is strikingly elegant — a luminous white with notes of citrus blossom, white peach, and savory herbs, all carried by the mineral tension and finesse that Montosoli soils impart. Being from Montosoli’s north facing vineyards, the acid in the red grapes is substantial, and the wine does show some hints of red fruit mixed with the citrus and white peach. It reminds me of a Blanc de Noirs Champagne in that way, but so few other wines I have come across have a similar effect.
Capanna’s history in Montalcino stretches back to the 1950s, when the Cencioni family helped define the region’s winemaking identity. Their deep connection to the land and intimate understanding of Sangiovese give the SangioBi a sense of place that’s unmistakably Montalcino, even in this rare, white expression.
The 2024 SangioBi is not merely a curiosity, although it has kept my attention. It captures the soul of Montalcino in a form that feels both entirely new and deeply rooted in tradition.
