Benchmark Arneis by Giovanni Almondo
From the heart of Roero, where sandy soils and steep hillsides give Arneis its most articulate voice, Almondo has long been a reference-point producer for the grape. “Bricco delle Ciliegie”, named for the cherry trees that dot the vineyard, is not just a single-vineyard bottling. It is a statement of what Arneis can achieve at its highest level.
Giovanni Almondo approaches this traditionally humble variety with a seriousness seldom offered to Arneis. He harvests and vinifies his Arneis in individual vineyard blocks, treating each parcel separately to preserve site expression. In Piemonte, this level of attention is typically reserved for Nebbiolo. To see Arneis handled with the same love is unusual, and it shows in the glass.
The élevage is equally thoughtful. A portion, usually around 10%, of the wine is aged in untoasted oak, but not to impart flavor. There are no dominating notes of vanilla or toast. Instead, the barrels allow gentle oxygen exchange, softening the wine’s edges. The oak contributes dimension and quiet structure without leaving its mark. The remaining portion is aged in Clayver ceramic spheres, preserving freshness, aromatic clarity, and the vibrant core of fruit. These neutral, breathable vessels protect the purity of the variety.
The result is a beautifully calibrated wine: the oak-aged component lending subtle breadth and polish, while the ceramic-aged portion safeguards refreshment and minerality. Together, they create a Roero Arneis that is beautifully constructed, from vineyard to your glass with each step thought through carefully.
This is Arneis in superlative form: varietally transparent, site-driven, and crafted with the kind of intention rarely afforded to the grape. The wine is delicious and very affordable. Easily overlooked on the shelf as ‘just another Arneis’, this is far more than that. This is what all Arneis should want to be when it grows up..
92 Points, Vinous Media
The 2024 Roero Arneis Bricco delle Ciliegie is terrific. Creamy and layered in the glass, the 2024 is laced with apricot, chamomile dried flowers and a hint of spice, all of which fill out the mid-palate nicely. Pretty floral overtones brighten the finish. The 2024 was vinified and aged in a combination of French oak barrels and Clayver ceramic vessels. This is a superb effort, especially for the year. Bricco delle Ciliegie remains a reference point.