Beyond Barolo and Barbaresco: The Grape Previously Enjoyed By Piedmontese Nobility
If you know Piedmont mostly through Barolo and Barbaresco, Grignolino shows a completely different side of the region. Pale in color, naturally high in acidity and full of red fruit and spice, it can almost look like a dark rosé or very light Pinot Noir in the glass. Then you taste it, and the surprise is how much structure is hiding underneath: mouthwatering acidity, fine but noticeable tannin and a distinctly peppery, savory edge.
When we tasted the 2024 Castello di Neive Grignolino, that contrast was exactly what caught the team's attention. It is delicate and refreshing, with bright red fruit, a floral lift and plenty of energy, but there is still enough grip and spice to give the wine real character. It is the kind of red that feels equally at home at the dinner table or served with a slight chill.
Grignolino has a fascinating history in Piedmont. Long before Nebbiolo and Barbera came to dominate the conversation, it was a highly regarded local variety and was reportedly enjoyed by Piedmontese nobility. Today, it has become something of an insider's grape: traditional, distinctive and especially loved by sommeliers and Piedmont enthusiasts looking beyond the region's famous names.
Even the grape's name gives you a clue to its personality. Grignolino is generally thought to come from the Piedmontese word grignole, referring to the grape's unusually numerous seeds. Those seeds contribute to the wine's characteristic tannin and can give the finish a slightly bitter, almond-like quality.
Castello di Neive is one of the historic estates of Neive and is best known for its Barbaresco. Grignolino represents a much smaller part of the estate's production and offers a chance to taste one of Piedmont's less familiar indigenous grapes.
The 2024 is made entirely from Grignolino and without oak, keeping the focus on freshness and the grape's naturally aromatic character. Expect delicate red berries and rose, followed by a dry, lively palate with spice, savory notes and that unmistakable little tug of tannin on the finish.
And this is an exceptionally useful wine at the table. Its combination of high acidity, moderate body and tannin makes it fantastic with foods that can be difficult for heavier reds: cured meats, pizza, tomato-based dishes and rich Italian comfort food.
We'd suggest enjoying it outside with a slight chill and a charcuterie board, which feels just right for these perfect September nights. If you're looking for a more serious dinner, it would also be excellent alongside Eggplant Parmigiana or just about anything made with all of those late-season tomatoes.
For anyone who loves Piedmont but wants to move beyond Nebbiolo, this is exactly the kind of bottle worth knowing. Grignolino is deceptively pale, surprisingly grippy and unmistakably Piedmontese.
