Bone-Dry, Mineral, and Distinctly Finger Lakes
The Finger Lakes has steadily earned its place among the great cool-climate wine regions of the world, and Riesling is its calling card. What was once considered an up-and-coming region has, over the last decade, proven itself vintage after vintage, with producers like Forge Cellars leading the charge. Their focus on single-vineyard bottlings has showcased just how much depth and nuance the Finger Lakes can offer, and the Railroad Vineyard bottling is one of the clearest examples.
The 2021 vintage in the Finger Lakes was not an easy one. Rain, uneven ripening, and unpredictable weather tested growers throughout the season, but it’s in challenging vintages that the best estates prove their worth. Forge Cellars managed the conditions with precision and care, resulting in wines that are beautifully transparent to site—perhaps leaner than other vintages, but intensely mineral and full of character. Rather than pushing for ripeness at all costs, Forge leaned into freshness and structure, producing dry Rieslings that are vivid, balanced, and incredibly expressive.
The Railroad Vineyard bottling captures all of this with striking clarity. True to Forge’s philosophy, it is bone-dry, with a spine of acidity that carries citrus, orchard fruit, and delicate floral notes into a long, stony finish. There’s nothing exaggerated here—just a wine of precision and honesty, shaped by the site and the season. It proves how Finger Lakes Riesling can stand shoulder to shoulder with the best dry Rieslings of Germany or Alsace, while remaining distinctly its own.
Forge Cellars has shown once again that the Finger Lakes is not just a region to watch, it’s already here. The 2021 Railroad Vineyard Riesling is a triumph of craftsmanship and terroir, a wine that turns a challenging year into something thrilling in the glass. For those who love dry Riesling, this is a bottle not to miss.
93 Points, James Suckling
Expressive aromas of lemon zest, mandarin orange and yellow grapefruit are married to startling power and structure for the difficult 2021 vintage. Long racy and energetic finish. Needs some time and will amply reward patience.