Bordeaux Blanc, one of the Greatest Values in Wine
I generally can get into well-made versions of almost any grape in any region, with a few exceptions. One of those exceptions is New World Sauvignon Blanc. I can absolutely appreciate the quality of the best examples from California and New Zealand, but they rarely make me want to pour a second glass. The explosive grapefruit, tropical fruit, and overt herbaceousness that define many of those wines simply are not what I look for in Sauvignon Blanc. Bordeaux, however, does it right.
Whether sweet or dry, Bordeaux whites deliver the style of Sauvignon Blanc that I find most delicious, particularly when blended with Sémillon. The combination creates a wine with texture and depth that Sauvignon Blanc alone often lacks. Instead of aggressive grapefruit and gooseberry notes, the fruit profile leans toward lemon curd, lemon zest, green apple, and subtle orchard fruits. Beneath the bright citrus is often a savory undercurrent—something reminiscent of button mushrooms, wet stone, or fresh-cut herbs—that adds complexity and keeps the wine interesting from first sip to finish.
The Château de Chantegrive Graves Blanc is an excellent example of why Bordeaux remains one of the best values in the white wine world. Produced in Graves from a blend of Sauvignon Blanc and Sémillon, it offers the freshness and aromatic lift of Sauvignon balanced by the texture and roundness of Sémillon.
The 2023 Bordeaux vintage itself has earned widespread recognition as one of the strongest vintages of the last decade. Despite a hot and dry growing season, many producers achieved remarkable balance, concentration, and freshness. While much of the discussion around 2023 focuses on the region’s red wines, the best whites still show excellent fruit intensity and structure, making them highly attractive for both current drinking and short-term cellaring.
It is also worth noting that, by now, most Bordeaux producers and retailers have moved on to the 2024 or even 2025 vintage. Finding a 2023 on the shelf today means you are purchasing a wine with a few years of bottle age already under its belt. For a wine like this, that extra development can be a benefit, allowing the citrus fruit and savory notes to integrate while retaining the freshness that makes Graves Blanc so enjoyable.I am a huge believer that an extra year or two in bottle makes a huge difference in almost any wine. .
92 Points, Wine Enthusiast
The gravel soil of this estate dominates in its mineral texture. The freshness and grapefruit aroma provides a fruity contrast. The wine is rich, full with apple and pear flavors and a tang of orange zest at the end. Drink from 2026.