Old Vines, Timeless Barolo
There are good Barolo, there are great Barolo, and then there are the ones that make you stop mid-sip and reevaluate your life choices. The 2017 Fantino Barolo Riserva ‘Bussia Cascina Dardi’ is firmly in that last category.
First things first—2017 was a hot year. Drought conditions pushed harvest earlier than usual, and some winemakers struggled to keep freshness in their wines. But the Fantino didn’t just survive the heat; they thrived in it. With their old Nebbiolo vines (planted in 1946 and 1947!) and impeccable vineyard work, they managed to craft a wine that combines depth and power with a remarkable leafy freshness. That diurnal temperature shift—warm days, cool nights—saved the vintage, allowing this Barolo to retain its balance and elegance. With their 75-year-old vines and deep-rooted experience, the Fantinos turned challenge into triumph.
Aged five years in large Slavonian oak and another year in bottle before release, this is everything you want from Bussia. Deep color, rich fruit, classic structure—but with tannins that won’t make you feel like you’re being punished for opening it young. Think dark cherry, dried rose petals, truffle, and a whisper of menthol. And while it’s stunning now, the aging potential is undeniable. Give it 15, maybe 20 years, and you’ll be rewarded handsomely.
This is old-school Barolo with a modern sensibility—structured, but not brutal; complex, but not impenetrable. The Fantino brothers have once again proven why their wines belong in any serious cellar. The only question left is: how many bottles do you want?
