Erbaluce di Caluso Vigna Misobolo, Best in Category
If I have one mission when recommending wine, it's introducing people to grapes they've never heard of that deserve far more attention. Erbaluce sits very near the top of that list.
Native to the tiny appellation of Caluso in northern Piedmont, Erbaluce has been grown here for centuries, yet it remains one of Italy's best-kept secrets. It produces wines with remarkable energy, mineral precision, and longevity—qualities that make me wonder why it hasn't achieved the same recognition as varieties like Riesling or Chenin Blanc.
No producer has done more to champion the grape than Cieck. The 2022 Vigne Misobolo comes from Casa Cieck's most treasured vineyard, a historic site planted more than fifty years ago on the slopes of San Giorgio, about 320 meters above sea level. The vineyard itself tells the story of the estate. In the early 1970s, Remo Cieck—who was also serving as mayor of the town—decided to plant the site exclusively to white grapes, believing Erbaluce deserved to be the future of the region. He wanted to lead by example, and today that decision looks remarkably prescient.
The vineyard is trained using a traditional double pergola system, allowing exceptional sunlight exposure while naturally limiting yields. The result is fruit with tremendous concentration without sacrificing freshness. Even the name, Misobolo, is deeply rooted in local history, taken from the historic area surrounding the Sanctuary of the Madonna del Misobolo, a beloved landmark in Canavese and the resting place of Teresa Belloch, the celebrated opera singer and muse of Gioachino Rossini.
The 2022 opens with aromas of citrus blossom, green apple, white peach, and fresh herbs before giving way to a palate that is all about precision. It is bone dry, intensely mineral, and carried by vibrant acidity that makes each sip feel as fresh as the first. There is a quiet power to the wine.
If you've never tasted Erbaluce before, this is exactly where I would begin. If you already know the grape, you'll recognize immediately why Cieck has become its benchmark producer. The 2022 Vigne Misobolo isn't just an introduction to an obscure variety, it's one of the finest expressions of one of Italy's truly great white grapes, and a bottle that I think deserves a place in every white wine lover's cellar.
