Freshness from Abruzzo
There is something quietly thrilling about discovering wines that massively overdeliver. These two 2023 releases from Ciavolich, one of Abruzzo’s most historic estates, are exactly that kind of find. I fell in love immediately.
Ciavolich farms in the Colline Pescaresi, a subzone that enjoys some of the highest numbers of sunshine hours in all of Italy. On paper, that sounds like a recipe for heavy, overripe wines, but Abruzzo has a secret weapon. Thanks to altitude, cooling Adriatic breezes, and significant nighttime temperature drops, the grapes experience an exceptionally long hang time. The result is wines with elevated natural acidity, moderate alcohols, and remarkable freshness, even in a sunny year.
2023 Ciavolich Pecorino, Colline Pescaresi ‘Aries’ Pecorino remains one of Italy’s greatest white wine values, and Aries shows exactly why. Long hang time builds aromatic complexity, while the cool conditions preserve snap and tension. Expect citrus peel, pear, white flowers, and a subtle saline edge, all carried by brisk acidity. Alcohol levels often come in below 12.5%, making this a white you can return to glass after glass without fatigue. It’s vibrant rather than weighty, expressive rather than ripe for ripeness’ sake which is a perfect alternative to pricier northern Italian whites.
2023 Ciavolich Montepulciano d’Abruzzo This wine quietly rewrites expectations. Montepulciano is too often pigeonholed as a dark, fully ripe “pizza wine,” but Ciavolich’s version is all about elegance. At a surprisingly modest 13.5% alcohol, it offers juicy red and dark cherry fruit, gentle spice, and polished tannins, all framed by freshness and lift. It’s supple, balanced, and food-friendly—proof that Montepulciano can be graceful as well as generous.
Together, these wines capture Abruzzo today: abundant sunshine, cool temperatures, long ripening seasons, and a producer committed to excellence over excess. The result is delicious wines and values that are becoming harder and harder to find.
90 Points, Wine Enthusiast
The nose is sweet but also clean, balanced and refreshing, with aromas of cherries, soil, milk chocolate, chili pepper and wild fennel. The palate has a similar feel, as headlining blackberries and black plums are accompanied by malted chocolate and licorice. Sleek tannins balance fiery acid.