Funky, but not too funky, Arbois Chardonnay
This is a special bottling from a 60-year-old plot in Montigny-les-Arsures, sourced from vines of remarkable age and character. Emeric Matheny completed the bottling in late August 2021 after a three-year elevage in barrels, following what he calls his “semi-voile” approach. In this method, some barrels are topped up while others are allowed to evaporate, creating partial oxidative influence without a full voile character. The result is a wine that combines the power and richness of oxidative aging with extraordinary lift, freshness, and clarity—a rare combination that makes this Chardonnay utterly captivating.
On the palate, the wine shows a remarkable tension. Its fresh acidity lifts the subtle oxidative layers of dried citrus, almond, and faint honey, while the mineral-driven backbone keeps it precise and focused. The wine has a savory, textured finish that is both elegant and persistent, rewarding careful drinking and pairing beautifully with food—or enjoyed simply on its own.
A classic Rosenthal grower, the Mathendy Domaine is a true family affair that produces among the best wines in the region at a very good value. Their approach is rigorous and patient: small yields, careful hand work in the vineyard, and minimal intervention in the cellar. Emeric combines deep respect for tradition with a thoughtful modern sensibility, producing wines that reflect the terroir while revealing subtle complexity and personality. This bottling is a step above the “basic” Chardonnay, showcasing their skill, vision, and commitment to excellence.
Production is extremely small, making every bottle a rare opportunity to experience Jura at its finest. This is Chardonnay stripped to its essence: authentic, precise, and endlessly intriguing—a wine that challenges expectations while remaining compellingly drinkable.
