Discovering Andalucía - The Marco de Jerez
An exploration of Vinos de Pasto, historic vineyards, and the evolving wines of Andalucía.
Not too long ago, I joined the team at Gordon’s and quickly realized how much I appreciate being part of a place that encourages us to share what we’re truly passionate about. For me, that passion has always been Andalucía; its culture, its people, its history, and its extraordinary wines.
For centuries, the wines of Jerez have graced the tables of aristocrats, inspired the verses of poets, and been shared at humble gatherings. They are part of a winemaking heritage that has transcended generations, cultures, and social boundaries.
Today, the Marco de Jerez is experiencing an exciting renaissance. While its traditional fortified wines continue to captivate sommeliers and collectors around the world, a new generation of winemakers is rediscovering the potential of its indigenous grape varieties, distinctive white albariza soils, and historic vineyard areas known as pagos.
One of the most compelling expressions of this movement is the revival of Vinos de Pasto, unfortified wines made without the addition of grape spirit. From fresh, vibrant Palomino to more textured expressions shaped by skin contact, aging under flor, or oxidative influences, these wines offer a fascinating connection between the region’s past and present.
An important part of this renaissance is Territorio Albariza, an association of independent growers and bodegas dedicated to preserving the region’s historic vineyards and celebrating their individual character.
To celebrate International Sherry Week, I’m delighted to introduce, for the first time at Gordon’s, a special selection of seven wines that reflect the remarkable diversity of the Marco de Jerez. Each tells its own story, shaped by the vineyards, the people, and the traditions that make this region so special.
Several of these wines are produced in very small quantities, and availability is limited.
I hope this selection inspires you to discover something new and experience a little of the Andalucía that continues to captivate me.
Bodega de Forlong
From El Puerto de Santa María, Bodega de Forlong offers a fresh perspective on the wines of Jerez. Founded by Alejandro Narváez and Rocío Áspera, this organically farmed estate embraces the Atlantic influence of its coastal vineyards, producing wines that combine a deep respect for tradition with a creative approach to winemaking.
Their wines showcase the versatility of Palomino and the character of the region’s albariza soils, ranging from fresh, expressive whites to wines of greater texture and complexity.
Amigo Imaginario 2023 — $38.98
Unfortified, skin-contact Palomino
Made from old-vine Palomino, this wine is vinified like a red, with extended skin contact before aging for 24 months in seasoned Oloroso casks. Golden-amber in color, it reveals notes of tropical fruit, toasted almonds, and hazelnuts, with a subtle chalky minerality. Richly textured yet dry and savory, it brings together the character of an orange wine with the winemaking heritage of Jerez.
Stardust 2022 — $59.98
Unfortified Palomino
A limited-production Palomino from the organically farmed vineyards of Balbaína Baja, aged for approximately two years in topped-up Jerez casks without flor. Elegant and restrained, with notes of orchard fruit, subtle smoky complexity, and a clean, saline finish that reflects the influence of the nearby Atlantic.
Ramiro Ibáñez
I have admired Ramiro Ibáñez's work for many years. He has played an important role in bringing renewed attention to the historic pagos of Jerez and the remarkable diversity of its albariza soils.
What I appreciate most is his ability to capture the individuality of each vineyard. His wines have a clarity and sense of place that remind me how much can be expressed through hands, soil, and time.
UBE Las Vegas El Carrascal 2022 — $86.98
Unfortified white wine
From a tiny vineyard planted in 1903, just five kilometers from the Atlantic, this Palomino grows on the distinctive lentejuelas albariza soils of El Carrascal. Aged for two years under flor in traditional Sherry casks, it reveals citrus, wild herbs, and a delicate chalky character, with a long, saline finish. An elegant expression of one of Jerez's most historic coastal vineyards.
UBE La Charanga Maína 2022 — $86.98
Unfortified white wine
From the fossil-rich barajuelas albariza soils of Maína, farther inland from the Atlantic, this Palomino spends two years aging under flor in traditional Sherry casks. Broader and more structured, with savory depth and a lingering finish, it offers a striking contrast to El Carrascal, beautifully illustrating how different vineyards and soils can shape wines of distinct personalities.
Agostado Cortado 2022 — $86.98
Unfortified historic-style wine
A fascinating interpretation of an ancestral Andalusian wine style, made from two nearly forgotten local grape varieties: Perruno and Uva Rey. Aged for two years in traditional Sherry casks without fortification, it develops notes of toasted nuts, wild herbs, and spice, with layers of savory complexity reminiscent of Palo Cortado. A remarkable glimpse into the region's winemaking past.
96 points — Guía Peñín
Sacristía AB
Sacristía AB is the personal project of Antonio Barbadillo Mateos, a member of the historic Barbadillo family of Sanlúcar de Barrameda. Drawing on generations of winemaking heritage, Antonio has followed his own path, seeking out wines that reflect the individuality of their origins.
His Sombrajo project brings him together with local growers, including Juan Francisco Pulido Cabral, known as El Piraña, whose tiny 0.33-hectare vineyard in Trebujena is the source of Viña La Rosa. The name Sombrajo comes from the traditional shelters where vineyard workers once sought refuge from the Andalusian sun—a lovely tribute to the people who have cared for these vineyards for generations.
Sombrajo Viña La Rosa 2021 — $37.98
Unfortified Palomino
Made from 38-year-old Palomino vines, this wine is fermented in Sherry casks and aged under flor for more than eight months without fortification. Delicate yet full of character, it offers subtle notes of fresh bread and savory complexity, leading to a dry, chalky finish. A beautiful connection between Vinos de Pasto and Manzanilla, it demonstrates how traditional winemaking techniques can give rise to something entirely different.
Manuel Antonio de la Riva
Willy Pérez and Ramiro Ibáñez revived the historic Manuel Antonio de la Riva name with a clear purpose: to reconnect traditional Sherry with the vineyards from which it originates.
Their wines offer a compelling reminder that the identity of a great Sherry begins long before the wine enters the solera.
Manzanilla Fina Miraflores Baja NV — $33.98
Traditional fortified Manzanilla Sherry
Sourced primarily from the Casilla Verde vineyard in Miraflores Baja, this classic Manzanilla is aged under flor for approximately three and a half years in a traditional solera. Fresh and beautifully defined, with notes of sea breeze, green olives, and salted almonds, followed by a crisp, lingering finish. A wonderful expression of Sanlúcar's coastal character.
92 points — Guía Peñín
Our Journey Continues
My hope is that this is just the beginning of something special at Gordon's—a community of wine lovers brought together by a shared curiosity for Sherry, Andalucía, and the many discoveries still waiting to be made.
As new wines become available, I'd love to introduce you to more producers, vineyards, and stories through future selections, tastings, masterclasses, and perhaps even wine journeys through Spain.
Our exploration continues on December 3 with Vuelta a España Masterclass: Icons & Rising Stars, featuring wines from Bodegas Luis Pérez and other remarkable Spanish producers.
I look forward to meeting you at the shop, so please stop by and say hello. I'd love to hear your thoughts, share a few stories, and continue enjoying these wonderful wines together.
Here's to new discoveries, great conversations, and many more glasses shared along the way.
¡Salud!
Jessica Ortiz