Old Vine Monastrell, Limestone Soils
At first glance, Dolomitas sounds like a reference to the famous mountain range in northern Italy. I know it confused me at first. But in this case, the name of the local mountain tells us about the local terroir. A dolomite is a type of mountain formed from carbonate rock known as dolomite, a sedimentary rock created from an ancient seabed. These formations are rich in limestone, and for certain grapes, Monastrell included, this kind of soil can be transformative. Limestone moderates vine vigor and preserves acidity, allowing the grape to show precision rather than excess.
The 2020 Bodegas Los Frailes “Dolomitas” comes from old-vine Monastrell planted directly on these dolomitic limestone soils in Valencia. Los Frailes is one of the region’s historic estates, working organically and biodynamically, and focusing their best wines on their oldest vineyards. These viñas viejas are naturally low-yielding, deeply rooted, and perfectly matched to their chalky, mineral-rich environment.
The 2020 vintage delivered ripe fruit without heft. Warm days were balanced by cool nights, and the limestone soils helped preserve freshness and structure. Winemaking contains gentle fermentations, careful aging, and minimal oak so the vineyard remains the focus rather than cellar technique.
In the glass, Dolomitas offers dark cherry, blackberry, and plum layered with dried herbs, subtle smoke, crushed stone, and a distinctly savory edge. The palate is firm but energetic, with fine-grained tannins, lifted acidity, and a long, mineral-driven finish that feels far more classical than the warm-climate Monastrell many people expect. This is not a plush, overripe expression of the grape. It is an old-vine Monastrell shaped by limestone, structured and savory. It also tells a story of a long gone epoch when central Spain was underwater. If you’re a nerd like me, you’ll appreciate that. Also, it would be great with the Burnt Ends of Brisket from my favorite BBQ place, Blackstrap BBQ in Winthrop.
The 2020 Los Frailes Dolomitas is a reminder that place matters. When Monastrell is planted on ancient seabeds rich in limestone and farmed with care, the results can be beautiful.