Resurrecting Tintilla de Rota: The 2021 Vara y Pulgar Tinto
Made from 100% Tintilla de Rota, a variety once beloved in southern Spain but long left in obscurity, Vara y Pulgar celebrates tradition while delivering a thoroughly modern style of wine. The vines thrive in the same distinctive albariza soils that give Sherry its unmistakable character—chalky, brilliant white earth that reflects sunlight and retains precious moisture, bringing depth and elegance to every sip.
Tintilla de Rota, a variety devastated by the scourge of Phylloxera in the late 19th century, survived only in small pockets of wild vines. Nearly forgotten, it has been painstakingly revived through cuttings from those last remaining plants. Today, outside of its natural feral existence, Tintilla de Rota grows only here—on this singular estate in Andalusia—making Vara y Pulgar one of the rarest wines of its kind.
What sets Vara y Pulgar apart even further is its cool growing season. Buffeted by cool winds from the Atlantic Ocean, average temperatures hover just under 69°F despite the low latitude, allowing Tintilla de Rota to ripen slowly and evenly, preserving a remarkable freshness and balance. The result is a red wine that defies expectations: bright and lifted, with supple fruit, savory spice, and a mineral backbone that speaks directly of its unique terroir.
Behind the wine stands Ole e Obrigado, the acclaimed importer devoted to bringing Spain and Portugal’s hidden gems to American tables. Their commitment to authenticity and sustainable practices ensures that wines like Vara y Pulgar don’t just survive, but thrive in today’s world of fine wine.
92 Points, James Suckling
Meaty spices, grilled herbs, dark earth and rich black cherries and hibiscus. Intense yet juicy on the palate with a full body and a tight and bright finish. 100% Tintilla. Drink or hold.
Winery Tasting Notes
Opaque ruby. Smoke- and mineral-accented black and blue fruits, candied flowers and succulent herbs on the highly perfumed nose. Juicy and focused in the mouth, offering concentrated boysenberry, bitter cherry and violet pastille flavors that become sweeter as the wine opens up. The dark berry and floral notes linger on the spicy, very long finish, which is given shape by smooth tannins. -- Josh Raynold