RWM Day 2, 1er Cru Clos des Rocs Pouilly-Loché
With the historic 2020 re-classification, Pouilly-Loché was granted its first official Premier Cru sites, a milestone that validated what insiders have known for years: this is a terroir capable of producing Chardonnay of real depth and ageability. Among these newly recognized vineyards, Clos des Rocs stands out for its singular identity as a monopole, and for controlling nearly a third of the entire appellation. RWM has known for a long time that Clos des Rocs offered 1er Cru quality, and the time spent with them is paying off.
The 2023 Clos des Rocs, Pouilly-Loché 1er Cru ‘Clos des Rocs’ Monopole is a remarkable expression of this moment. Sourced from estate vines over 80 years old, the wine carries a natural concentration and quiet intensity that only old vines can deliver. There’s a depth here that feels effortless. Layered orchard fruit, subtle citrus oil, and a firm mineral backbone that keeps everything precise and lifted.
I’ve been banging the drum for this region for several years now. As land in the Cote d’Or becomes more precious, the quality of winemaking has increased significantly in Southern Burgundy and Beaujolais. Climate change has also been kind to the ‘shoulder appellations’ like Loche. For those who love White Burgundy with both pedigree and authenticity, but hate the prices as I do, this is a bottle that checks every box: historic vineyard, newly recognized Premier Cru status, old vines, and a producer committed to tradition over trend. Oh, and a Jasper Morris 93 is like a Wine Advocate 98 points. No grade inflation there.
92-93 Points, Jasper Morris Inside Burgundy