Sicily, Unfiltered: 2022 Gulfi ‘Nerojbleo’ Nero d’Avola
Grown organically in the rolling hills of the Hyblean Mountains in Ragusa, this is Nero d’Avola at its most honest. Gulfi farms without chemical fertilizers or synthetic inputs, and the wine is part of the Non-GMO Project. Honestly, even if the Non-GMO project didn’t exist they would still be followed in spirit because these methods are deeply practical in preserving the integrity of the land. Yields are kept intentionally low, ensuring concentration.
The name “Nerojbleo” itself offers a glimpse into local culture. The “J” comes from regional dialect, where it’s pronounced like an “I,” a subtle nod to the heritage embedded in the wine. I have to admit, I am regularly distracted by this and keep wanting to pronounce the J. But the juice is supremely worth the confusion. Gulfi has long been a trailblazer in Sicily, pushing boundaries while staying rooted in tradition. Their decision to prioritize authenticity, even when it meant forgoing official appellation labeling, speaks volumes about their ethos.
That spirit is embodied by proprietor and winemaker Matteo Catania, one of the most electric, passionate individuals I’ve ever encountered in the wine world. His energy translates directly into the wines: alive, expressive, and unapologetically Sicilian. He’s also quite the artist–he loves to draw a map of Sicily at every sales stop instead of bringing a presentation with him.
Importantly, Nerojbleo serves as the ideal gateway into Gulfi’s lineup. While their single-vineyard wines from Pachino (now finally labeled with their true place names) showcase the nuance of specific sites, this bottling offers a beautifully complete picture of the varietal and the region as a whole.
Honest farming, thoughtful winemaking, and a deep respect for Sicily’s identity all come together here in a way that feels both timeless and exciting.
92 Points, Vinous
Crushed violet mingles with lavender and a dusting of spice as the 2022 Nero d'Avola Nerojbleo slowly blossoms in the glass. The palate is round and supple, with ripe red and black fruits offset by savory herbal tones. Cooling acidity maintains a lovely balance. The 2022 tapers off with potent length yet remains fresh and pure, leaving nuances of wild blueberry and a subtle citrus twang.