The Smart Way to Drink Margaux
If Bordeaux feels a little misunderstood right now, you’re not imagining it.
Somewhere along the way, Bordeaux picked up a reputation for being buttoned-up, stodgy, and stuck in the past with the generation just getting into wine. The reality on the ground could not be more different. Modern Bordeaux is one of the most dynamic wine regions on earth, full of new energy, thoughtful farming, precise winemaking, and (most importantly for me) extraordinary value if you know where to look. One of the smartest places to look is second wines of respected chateau, such as ‘S’ de Siran.
Château Siran is one of Margaux’s historic properties, with roots stretching back to the 18th century. While the Grand Vin commands serious attention and pricing, the second wine, the ‘S’ de Siran, delivers the soul of the estate at a fraction of the cost. These wines are crafted from the same vineyards, by the same team, with the same obsessive standards, but from younger vines and lots selected for earlier accessibility.
And Margaux… oh, Margaux.
No other appellation in Bordeaux captures perfume and grace quite like it. The 2020 ‘S’ de Siran opens with classic Margaux aromatics of violets, crushed rose petals, blackcurrant, cedar, and subtle graphite followed by a palate that is silky, polished, and effortlessly charming. There’s structure here, but it’s wrapped in velvet. It’s the kind of wine that makes you slow down after the first sip.
The 2020 vintage only adds to the appeal. A warm, balanced growing season produced wines of both concentration and finesse. This is a bottle that drinks well now with a decant, and will reward patience for years to come.
The most important thing about this wine is really the larger Bordeaux story right now. While attention and dollars chase trophy bottles, the region is quietly producing some of the best value fine wine on the planet. Prices for estates like this, even with tariffs, have never made more sense. The quality-to-price ratio is simply outstanding.
93 Points, James Suckling
Blackcurrants, black berries, mushrooms, and violets on the nose. Full-bodied with very polished and beautiful tannins that give the wine depth and length. Excellent second wine. Try after 2025.