There is Muscadet, and then there is Clisson.
I remember when I first started blind tasting, an MS that was blinding our group called on me to run through one white wine. In the end, I decided to call it Muscadet Sur Lie, and his response was ‘Do you really hate it that much?’ It turns out it was unoaked, 1er Cru Chablis. But that idea has stuck with me since then–some people don’t respect Muscadet. But then, some people haven’t had the best examples. The 2022 Domaine de la Pépière “Clisson” is a reminder of just how serious, age-worthy, and quietly thrilling this corner of the Loire can be when everything is aligned: the right site, the right farming, and the patience to let the wine become itself.
Clisson is the grand cru of Muscadet in all but name. Deep granite soils dominate here, forcing Melon de Bourgogne to dig deep, naturally limiting yields and building a wine that is less about simple refreshment and more about structure, energy, and mineral authority. Pépière treats Clisson accordingly. Only old vines, organic farming, long lees aging, and absolutely no rush to release the wine before it’s ready.
The 2022 vintage brings a beautiful balance. There is ripeness and texture from the warm growing season, but Clisson’s granite backbone keeps everything taut and focused. This is not a citrus-splash Muscadet for quick consumption.The wine shows layers of crushed stone, sea spray, pear skin, subtle fennel, and a savory, almost saline depth that lingers long after the glass is empty. The extended lees' aging adds breadth and mouthfeel without softening the wine’s electric core.
Still today, Muscadet remains misunderstood by many. For many drinkers (and even the one Master Sommelier I mentioned), the region is frozen in time as a simple oyster wine. Pépière has long proven otherwise, crafting wines that can deserve serious cellar time. Clisson, in particular, rewards patience, evolving over years into something strikingly complex and Burgundian in spirit, if not in price.
Value is the play here. In a world where mineral-driven, site-specific white wines routinely command triple-digit prices, the 2022 Pépière Clisson offers profound terroir expression at a fraction of the cost. It is one of the smartest buys in French white wine. Full stop.
