Vineyard Road Day 5: Hoppenot Fleurie
Grégoire Hoppenot is not a newcomer guessing his way through great vineyards. Before founding his domaine, he spent two years managing vineyards for Maison Trénel, the Beaujolais house owned by M. Chapoutier. That experience gave him a rare, ground-level understanding of the region’s finest terroirs. Knowledge he put to work when assembling his own collection of sites, including some of Fleurie’s most prized climats: “Les Moriers,” “Clos de l’Amandier,” “Les Roches,” and “Les Garants.”
“Les Moriers” is a beautiful site. Hoppenot farms nearly three hectares of this striking, east-facing hillside, which rises from 260 meters near the Moulin-à-Vent border to 340 meters at its peak. The vineyard overlooks the iconic windmill of Moulin-à-Vent and shares borders with Poncié, Les Roches, and Les Garants, with the upper parcels just steps from the winery. Vine age ranges from 35 to 90 years, rooted in two distinct, mineral-rich soil types: poor, shallow granitic sands at the top of the slope, and heavier clay over granite in the lower area. Hoppenot works both sectors meticulously, selecting only the finest fruit for this single-terroir bottling.
As in the vineyard, thoughtfulness defines the cellar. Whole clusters are fermented with native yeasts, without added sulfur, and élevage is tailored to match the power of the site: eight months in a combination of large oak foudré and seasoned Burgundian barrels (each with five prior vintages). Every choice is made through careful tasting, parcel by parcel—an approach that reflects Hoppenot’s exacting standards.
The result is a Fleurie of depth and character. The 2022 vintage brings layered wild berry fruit wrapped in a subtle smoky note, with remarkable aromatic detail. On the palate, it is the most intense and structured wine in Hoppenot’s lineup, yet it never loses Fleurie’s signature grace, bright, silky, and poised, with a long, slow-unfolding finish that lingers beautifully. This wine is brought to us directly by Vineyard Road, ensuring impeccable provenance and a direct link to the source.
These wines will not be on our shelf. Production is small enough that I am sure we will sell out, and we will have to wait until the next vintage to offer these wines again.
92 Points, James Suckling
This is a fresh and delicious Fleurie. It’s medium-bodied with tasty layers of rose hips, raspberries, licorice, nutmeg and blood oranges supported by fine-grained tannins. Excellent persistence. Drink or hold.