Wilson Daniels Day 3, Elena Walch of Alto Adige
Now imported by Wilson Daniels, Elena Walch produces fabulous wines from the Alto Adige. Focusing on historical local varietal, this one is the 2023 Lagrein. Lagrein is one of Europe’s most unique native varieties, historically tied to Alpine growing zones and nowhere more completely at home than Alto Adige. Wilson Daniels added Elena Walch to their portfolio to strengthen their Italian offerings, specifically because they lacked a producer from Alto Adige, and the wines have only recently become available in the United States. Personally, I’m a big fan of Syrah and Cabernet Franc, and I find that Lagrein really scratches that itch. Lagrein is not an international grape planted everywhere. It is a deeply regional variety whose identity is shaped by mountain viticulture, dramatic day-to-night temperature swings, mineral soils, and the late harvest dates that only Alpine vineyards can provide. While the grape can be found in small pockets elsewhere, Alto Adige remains its spiritual and qualitative home, where it achieves its most complete expression. The wines of Elena Walch are also unusual within Alto Adige because the estate is family owned rather than a cooperative. In a region where the average landholder controls less than three hectares of wine, that distinction matters. While there are some good quality co-ops in the region, estate ownership allows full control over every stage of production from farming decisions and harvest timing to cellar work and final selection, resulting in a level of consistency and quality control that is difficult to replicate. It is one reason Elena Walch has become one of the benchmark names of the region. Now in the U.S. through Wilson Daniels, after roughly two years in their import portfolio and about one year in the market, Elena Walch represents an exciting newer chapter for one of America’s most respected importers. The 2023 Elena Walch Selezione Alto Adige Lagrein is an ideal way to experience one of Italy’s great under-the-radar red grapes in the hands of a top estate.
90 Points, Wine Spectator
Hints of smoke and bacon fat underscore the crushed black raspberry and boysenberry fruit of this well-balanced, medium-bodied red, which marries fine, taught tannins and plum skin acidity with the core of dark fruit. Accents of star anise, dried dill and thyme play out on the chewy finish. Drink now-2029. 5,000 cases made.