It’s Only a Matter of Time: Domaine Hubert Lignier
Posted on: 04/14/22 12:47 PM
AMONG THE BEST WINES IN BURGUNDY
Domaine Hubert Lignier cuts a legendary figure across the modern Burgundy landscape. One of Morey’s great classicists, the Domaine’s Clos de la Roche is iconic, in the words of Neal Martin, capable of “being a contender for the best wine in the Côte de Nuits.”
Of course, the Domaine went through a very public private hell, as wunderkind Romain succumbed to cancer, and his widow waged a very impolitic war over the Domaine’s vines, which had begun to be leased to Romain in anticipation of him, one day, taking over the Domaine. His brother Laurent was pressed into service, and, after a decade or so, everything reverted to the Ligniers, and the cloud over the Domaine began to lift.
During this time of family strife, Laurent also found his voice. The wines went from very good to exceptional again, with a greater sense of precision and balance married to a natural concentration that was coming from the vineyard, rather than the cellar.
Since that time, beginning around 2012 or so, something else has been changing – the market. Elite names such as Coche, Roumier, Roulot, Raveneau, Rousseau, Leroy and DRC have become almost impossible to secure for anything like sane money. All the top wines from all these producers are now well over $1000, and many are many thousands of dollars.
Now, Lignier has never been “cheap,” but in the context of the market today, the wines are wildly underpriced, and I am firmly convinced the Domaine is poised for a significant jump on the after market.
Yes, these really are among the best wines in Burgundy. But, sadly, they are very likely headed toward the same irrationality that is driving the top of the Burgundy wine market. I would buy them when you can.
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