The 1998 Clos de Mesnil offers wonderfully fragrant, toasty, shaved almond and orange blossom aromas over a core of apple tart, ginger and mace. Just starting to show some bottle evolution, the palate fills the mouth with taut, spice-laced flavors offset by lively acid and supported by very fine bubbles. The finish is long with layers of baking spices.The 1998 Brut Blanc de Blancs Clos du Mesnil has come together beautifully since I tasted it last year. This is a remarkably taut, focused bottle of the 1998 with great energy and minerality in its precise, crystalline fruit. I dont expect the 1998 to be one of the longest-lived Mesnils, but if this bottle is any indication, it should continue to drink well for a number of years. Anticipated maturity: 2012-2028.
Wine Advocate - 96 05/21/2012